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10
"..Adja
Nyonboynyo - my new name .."
From March 23 - 30, 2001
March 23
Mom & Dad! Well, we're here in Bouake (that's spelled right this
time). I'm sitting under this thatched roof gazebo thing, nice breeze
& we don't have class for another hour. Last night, we ate at this
fabulous restaurant - a nice place. We had calzones & wine…a
carafe of wine was only ~$4 & it was good wine. Then we had the
best ice cream I think I've ever eaten. We stayed up late last night
in our bunk beds, giggling like 10 year old girls. It was really fun.
We're staying tonight & eating more ice cream :) & leaving for
our regional houses tomorrow. We're hanging out there until Sunday,
when we go to our village!! They gave us some info - but, I don't know
what's actually correct. So I'll tell you after I see it myself. I gave
those pictures out, too. They really liked them. I'm going to go nap
before class. I can't wait to talk to you.
March 24
Today was a super long day. I tried to call you but you weren't home…obviously.
I'll write later. It's 12:30 & I'm about to pass out. I miss you.
March
25
This is definitely going to be a long week. It's 7:00 & I can't
go back to sleep. But I am so tired. Yesterday, we left Bouake about
9:00 & we came to Bondoukou on a big bus - like Greyhound. I was
pleasantly surprised at how decent the roads were. I think you're going
to be OK, Mom, for the most part :). Last night some PCVs & our
PCVL (Leader) met us & brought us back to the regional house. Picture
fraternity house, only smaller. It's really neat. We went out to dinner
last night to this awesome place. I had ½ chicken with rice &
onions/peppers. It was fancy. At home it would have been at a 5 star
place & ~$30. Here it was ~$2.50! It was the best meal I've had
here. Today, John, the PCVL, is taking me to my village. We're going
to spend the night at another city along the way tonight. It's only
about 4-5 hours away. But transport is so scattered, it takes longer.
So we're leaving today about 3. I met a girl who lives in the park,
too. She used to be a PCV, but works for the World Wildlife Fund now.
She said there's basically no tourism there now because poachers killed
too many animals. She said if I knew someone with a car, they could
take me around in there. But you need to have a car. She also said there
are 3 ecologists in my village who, once every 2 weeks bike through
the park, tracking animal prints & monitors their movement. She
said they'd probably let me go with them! And, since I'm on the Comoe
River, they boat up it ever so often that they would take me. I may
not see a lot of animals, but it's sure to be beautiful anyway. I'm
hoping to talk to you today even if for just a minute. The PCVL's name
is John, but he's leaving in May. The new guy is Brendon. I talked to
Kurt last night for a little bit. I was telling him that when you come
over here - transport will take up a lot of our time. It may take 2-3
days to get from Abidjan to my village - if you want to see that. Then,
who knows after that. I'm checking out good places to go. I'm relatively
close to Ghana, if you wanted to meet your friend's family, Dad. Basically,
whatever you want, but I know you don't really know what's here. If
you want to see my village, though, it's pretty out there :). I'm going
to go grab some breakfast. I'll try to call you later. ~ OK. You weren't
home. In the future, if you are trying to find me, you can call the
regional house. Most of the time someone who speaks English will answer.
If a French speaker answers, just say "je suis le papa/la mama
de Niki - je ne comprends pas Francais - je vais telephoner plus tard."
I'll tell you how to pronounce this on the phone next time I talk to
you. You shouldn't need to look for me…but just in case. My stomach
is catching up to me, too. There's no telling what it is. My control
over my food & water the last few days has been none. I hope it
behaves while I'm on transport.
March 28
Well, it's been a long 3 days. I've had maybe 10 minutes to write. But
I would have passed out. I'm exhausted. We left Bondoukou Sunday afternoon.
We piled into this UPS looking truck with windows out in the sides -
window holes, but no glass. There were probably 30-40 people in the
back. I sat up front with 3 other adults & a baby! It's about the
same size up front as a full size pick up truck! The man to my right
was practically hanging out the window and the lady to my left was on
top of the driver with her baby. That trip took about 4 ½ hours
- the last 3 ½ on a dirt road! WE spent the night in a town called
Nassian. There is a married PCV couple that lives there. John, the PCVL
(leader) took me to my village. We went out in Nassian Sunday night
to this huge maquis. It was like the one you'd see on the beach. It
ws completely out of place. But it was fun. We got up early Monday to
come to Ganse. It was beautiful coming here. The park is literally across
the dirt road from my village.
March 29
I haven't had much of a chance to write. Well back to my story…we
showed up Monday and everyone was waiting. John speaks French &
Koulango so the first day & a half was easy. I was supposed to leave
today, spend the night in Nassian tonight, then head to Bondoukou tomorrow.
We were all going back to Abidjan together on Sat. Well, as Africa would
have it, there's just no transport today, even though there usually
is. So everything is pushed back a day. And I'm flying solo. I'm really
upset right now. I really wanted to go back today. It sucks being here
now because I don't have my own place - it's not finished yet. So I'm
living out of a trunk in someone else's house. I'm told when to eat,
sleep, bathe... I can't get away from anyone. Everyone wants to check
out the new whitey. So I spend a painfully long frustrating day trying
to understand everyone then continue to be in their presence til it's
time for bed. I eat what they give me - basically meat & potatoes
- no fruit, no veggies… I hate it! It's so uncomfortable not having
any control at all. Everyone talks too fast AND talks to me in Koulango.
I think I'll be trilingual in 2 years! I feel so stupid for most of
the day because most people aren't patient and won't talk slow. So I
say what and ask them to repeat themselves and they just look at me
& laugh. There's one for the ego. I know they probably don't mean
to be mean. But it's very disheartening to have 6-8 adults all laughing
at you while I'm trying my hardest to communicate with them. I'm glad
I can amuse them. On a brighter note - this place is beautiful. The
park is going to be my best friend. And the Comoe is about 5 ½
mile away & is breathtaking. We already went canoeing & saw
a monkey & some hippo tracks. I've already met with the 3 ecologists
who live in Ganse. And they said I can go riding with them when they
work in the park. They were 3 of the nicer people here. I hung out at
the school some - there are 3 or 4 classes. Kofi, John & Effie teach
there. Kofi (ko fee) is ~21 years old & he's basically been keeping
me company since I got here. He's very patient and will be a huge help
learning French and Koulango. All 3 teachers speak a little English
and are all eager to practice. So I imagine I'll be helping them too.
The Chef's wife is really nice. The Chef (Chief) intimidated me, but
he's nice too. They name me on Monday when I got here - Adja Nyonboynyo
- or something like that :)! Adja is the girl's name for Monday. There
is a girl's name & a boy's name for each day of the week. I was
"born" into the village on Monday. So my name is Adja. The
other name means something like "you can't just see someone once
& know who they are". They are taking me in as their daughter,
to know me better. They are all excited to have a girl too - the women
especially. I met the head woman of the women's group. So I can do stuff
with them maybe. I think the school will be a good place because the
teachers are young & enthusiastic. My house isn't finished. It actually
hasn't even been started. But the place where its going to be looks
cool. There are Mango trees everywhere too!! There's no electricity
which is good & I'm a good ways from the market which is good for
the same reason…nothing to blow money on! There's no cold drinks,
ice cream, yogurt, cookies… There's a botique here, but it sells
basic things only. I have a stove & a lamp and pots & something
to hold water in…all your basic "move in" items. But
I'm far away from the market. So I have to load up on my way back…along
with my bags & my bike! Eventually I'll have to have some furniture
made. I'm glad I brought my mattress….sitting all the time. I actually
had 2 blisters on my butt from traveling here! Oh, I was thinking of
things you can send me. I don't need them…or even want them desperately
right now…but down the road, if you just want to be nice &
send me something and don't know what to send :)…any sugar free
drink like Tang or Crystal Lite, mac-n'cheese, boxed red beans &
rice, pancake mix or the bags of muffin mix (the cheap Martha White
bags - blueberry, strawberry…), raisin chocolate chews :). The
couple we stayed with in Nassian just got a huge box of stuff like that
- & it wasn't pilfered through. Like I said, you don't need to send
anything. But if you get an itching to, that's what I would want :).
I took 3 pictures today of a monkey in Kofi's front yard. He was so
cute. I don't know how often I'll be able to get to a phone or the post
office… I'm at least a day's journey from any significant town.
If I go to the town where my PO box is, I have to spend the night. So,
I'll have to just test the waters the first month or so. I have bug
bites all over me. That's not a good indication for my new home. And
I have never seen so many *!@?*! sweat bees in one place. They're going
to make me ET (early termination - when you quit before your service
is over). And Mom, you weren't kidding when you said how much you craved
something cold to drink. That won't happen very often here. At least
the pump water is good. There are really 2 parts to my village - Ganse
1 & Ganse 2. I live in Ganse 2. There are 2 pumps, but the one in
Ganse 2 is broken. There's project #1. Ganse 1 is where all the old
people live. That will be tough because a lot of them only speak Koulango.
This language is going to be tough. Today was rough because I really
wanted to leave today…& I just can't. Too bad. That's how it
is. Welcome to Africa, where Niki can't always get her way :). I'm coming
home. I don't like places like that. I'm really going to like this place
after a while. I'm still a novelty & will be for the first month
or so. After that, it'll be like any other home. I'll have my own place
to retreat to - my "bath room" won't have a roof, so I can
take my bucket bath under the stars! I have a place to hang my hammock.
And I'll have my own latrine! I've been eating with my hands all week
too. It's so fun! I'll never go back to utensils! The kids here are
very polite. I've been here almost 4 days & I still don't know the
Koulango word for 'whitey'. I'm going to love this place. I just know
it. The river & the park are what makes this village for me. I don't
know if I'd be so excited if those weren't there. It's so beautiful.
I can't wait till you see it. Oh yeah. I was told by a PCV that you
can rent a car & chauffeur for ~$50/day…which might be worth
it because transport takes twice as long as it should. And there are
a couple hotels near here, too, that you can stay at - and our "driver"
can take us to. It's not very expensive in American $, but I don't know
exactly how much it is. You definitely have to check out my village
when you come. This place is amazing. I'm going to try to call you from
the regional house. But who knows when I'll get there. I miss you so
much. I wish I could come home & visit for a few days. I love you.
March 30
As my luck would have it - I found a ride yesterday & I'm here in
Bondoukou right now. We're leaving tomorrow for Abidjan. I kind of don't
want to go back to Monga. I'm excited about my village. AND - I found
powdered skim milk! That's the dietitian in me :). I've got so much
to do in the next few weeks. It's going to be fun. The phone isn't working
here right now. But I'll keep trying. I'll at least talk to you on Thurs….
I can't wait!!
Someone's going to the post office so I have to hand this off…
I'll call you ASAP…
I love you
Niki/Rock
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