Hey Mom & Dad!
Yesterday was the 4 month mark "in-country"! It's really gone by fast! Before I know it, I'll be heading to Abidjan to meet you guys :). I went to Nassian Thursday for the market…it's nice to get out of the village for a day. My head's been hurting lately, right at the base of my head, and my neck is stiff. I had a 1020 fever Thursday before I went to Nassian. It's funny. I don't remember ever taking my temp except at the doctor's. I only did because I have a thermometer right here. Anyway, I feel better but my head & neck still hurt a little. It's probably nothing. I'm just not used to having headaches. Don't worry, Mom, we got vaccinated against everything known to man, including meningitis. Yesterday, I went with Badoo to get some stuff for dinner. On the way back she bought this chalk looking stuff. It was packed hard…kinda shaped like a broken piece of chocolate chunk. I asked her what it was & she said women eat it when they're pregnant… Whaddya know, pica is practiced everywhere. I wanted to write to Dr Canfield to tell her I have a tough project ahead of me, but I didn't have her address. In case you don't know, pica is when people, usually pregnant women, eat non-food things like dirt, clay, chalk, sometimes ice - in place of real food. It's obviously not good if nothing else. It's just replacing real nutrition, but, I guess it could actually do harm. But the women crave it. I asked Badoo if it was like the chalk they use in school & she said yeah, but it tastes better. They eat chalk. And like it. See why I can't eat their food?! Oh yeah, I entertained the village today by "charging water". I walked to the river with Badoo & carried a fat tub of water all th4e way back without spilling a drop! It wasn't totally full - but it was more than ¾ full. I couldn't feel my arms, neck and back when I got to the house. But, by god, this "bruny" made it, laughing villagers & all! I don't see how they do it. I don't see how they don't have back & neck problems here. I got a letter from Julie yesterday. It sounds like she & Mary aren't quite as happy with their village. I think I really lucked out. But she was her same fun self even if she doesn't like it right now. She, Mary & Leonard were all meeting & asked me to come. But it's probably a 4 day commute from here. They all live so close. I got MORE mail in Nassian. I can't get over it. I'm trying not to get too used to it though. Oh yeah, the couple I stay with in Nassian…they are going home for a wedding so I gave them a stack of letters to mail for me. So all you to do this time is read! Well, and type…thanks, Dad :). I can't remember if I said this or not, but I've been hearing this mouse every night, but I can't ever find him. When I went to Nassian, the little bastard gnawed off the lid to my oatmeal can. So, I packed away all "mouse food". Well, this morning, I heard him again. I shined my light on the food & he was gnawing at a package of spaghetti that I forgot about. Now he can't get to any of the food, and Kwame put a mouse trap with a piece of a doughnut on it this morning. It's the afternoon now, and the little creep got a free lunch because the doughnut's gone. He can try to eat my food. Fine. He's hungry. I understand that. But it became personal when he s--- all over my pack. He's going down. I'd put out the poison I brought, but I don't want to waste it on a small mouse. I'm saving it for a more permanent house, which is further in the woods. I have a feeling I may have bigger visitors. Thanks for sending me the article on Kim Black. That's awesome! She is amazing. I don't know how she does it. And that girl is always smiling. I did see PC mentioned. Do you know how serious she is? How cool would that be if she was placed close to me! I'm going to go check out this run down hotel in the park - and cut a piece of bougainvillea so I can plant it by my house. Hope you're enjoying your weekend! ~~ Allright. Allright. Allright. I got the little booger. But I put the trap out again in case he's got friends. I put meat on it this time & it was tougher to remove. I'm sure it'll scare the pee out of me if I hear it tonight. The kids were fighting over it when I told them. I guess it shouldn't surprise me that they eat mice. That's why I'm going to be a vegetarian here :). I had such a fun day today. We went to check out the hotel. It looks like it used to be pretty cool. It shut down about 10 years ago. There were tons of cool trees & flowers. I cut a bunch of pieces & they're sitting in a bucket of water right now. I'll plant them in a few weeks. Kwame is apparently pretty into gardening. He said good idea on the bucket of water idea, and he wants to go get some clippings for his house. I went back to the river again for more water. And let everyone laugh again. It was fun. And it gives me a chance to be with the girls. I am almost always with Koffi, which most of the time is good. But it's nice to be away from him for a little bit anyway. Everyone says I'm his wife, since we're always together. I think it embarrasses him a little. It's kinda funny. EVERYONE tells me I'm their wife , or they are going to marry me. Today, I was hanging out with these women eating "kaka" (corn mashed to a pulp - into a flour almost - then they add water & cook it to a creamy soup consistency. They're convinced that corn is the food of all foods.) Anyway, where was I… Oh, this guy came up & asked me if I was madame or mademoiselle (married or single)? I said mademoiselle & he said good. He can marry me. So I said that's what I was hoping he'd say because I'm tired of cooking & washing clothes & I need someone to do it for me. Just as he was saying that's fine as long as I'll marry him, dude sitting next to him says "No. She's Koffi's wife". And just as he said that, the Pirate walked up & asked "how's my wife doing?" as he looked at me. So the big joke here is everyone is going to marry me. And tonight after dinner, a bunch of us were hanging out. There's a really REALLY old man who lives facing me & he always sits in front of his house talking to himself in Koulango. He doesn't speak French. He was yelling obscenities at the guys with me so they started messing with him. He was getting so mad. It was hilarious & I couldn't understand a word! I don't think I've laughed that hard since I've been here. Well, it's getting really late. It must be 8:15 already :). Seriously though, it's almost 10, which is late for me here. So good night to the most wonderful parents in the world. (I like M&Ms - peanut, & jelly beans :)). I love you!

May 20

Good morning! I just got back from running. And I'm about to head to church. I think the cool thing must be to run with Niki because this morning Kwasy - he's 18 - said he wanted to run --- and did. And as we were leaving, his 17 year old sister - Badoo - said she was going to run with me tomorrow. These people are work horses in the fields, but they can't run. Kwasy did pretty well this AM, but he was struggling the whole time. I think he just didn't want to lose to a girl. I'm no marathoner, but I'll run for 45 min - 1 hour, & I know Badoo won't be able to do it. Running was kinda my thing to be by myself & think of something else besides them. Maybe I'll let her go once & then she won't want to go again. I'm off to church. Every Sunday, I read the Bible. I started on page 1 - & I read the whole time because I can't understand anything in the Mass… Maybe I'll actually finish it in 2 years! There are too many characters to remember. I need your easy reading kid's Bible, Mom :). Be back after lunch!

May 21

Well, I got my first African compliment yesterday... One of Kwame's friends said I've gotten "bien grossi" since the first day. That means I've gotten fat :). Oh well, it's a good thing I'm not touchy about it. That could really create some problems! Yesterday, we were walking around the village & this stupid man (he's just a goofy moron) came up to me and started talking to me. He asked me if I had a "bed friend", or if I slept alone. I told him my bed was small & barely fit me. He told me I needed to buy a bigger bed, then he would be my "bed friend" and we could "make a baby". He's poking me in the stomach while he's saying this as if I don't know where babies are. He did this 3 times! It was amusing that time… Happens again, I'm breaking his fingers :). I talked to Koffi a lot last night. Found out he's really 23. He lies about his age for school. I saw his birthday on his school ID card. I thought he was awfully mature for 18. Also, I found out his Mom died when he was tiny - doesn't even remember her - & his Dad dies when he was 11 or 12. I asked him who raised him & he said he kinda just stayed with friends. It's stories like that that make me realize how lucky I am not only to simply have parents, but also ones that are pretty cool :). Oh yeah! This morning while I was running, I saw 6 or 7 gorillas running across the road about 50 yards up the road! Big ones & babies! It was awesome! Then I could see them in the park road just hanging out. That right there makes the early morning run worthwhile - even if I do have company. There's a guy here…he is 18 - Kwasy - I think I may have mentioned him already. Anyway, I think he has a crush on me because he comes to my house 5 or 6 times a day…just him. It's not uncommon for people to come by & hang out, but he never has until the last few days. And he asked if he could run with me yesterday, and he ran with me today. He never runs…and actually did pretty well. But I liked my runs by myself. They're slowly taking every minute away from me :)! I tried to shake him this morning with some intervals after a long run. He couldn't keep up, but he's still going tomorrow L. Badoo wants to run with us too. There's no way she'll be able to keep up… Her little brother couldn't even do it. They're almost finished with my 1st house. It's pretty big & it's way off by itself. I don't know if that's good or bad. People may not come by :) as often. But if they do, they'll expect to stay a while L. I think, on a whole, I don't like people. I just seem to like being by myself more here - maybe because all I can do with people is talk like a 5 year old, not even that, because everyone speaks Koulango to me. It'll get better. I'm gonna go grab some lunch. So, I'll be back later.

May 23

I saw the gorillas again, but this time I was closer & there were more of them! They were in the same place… I wonder if there is something there. The place I saw them, I only see on my "long-run" days. I think I'll be running a lot because I want to keep seeing them! And last night, Koffi told me that this girl found a baby monkey that a dog had bitten on the leg. She's trying to heal it's leg, then asked Koffi if I wanted it!! He said that since he's a baby, that he'll get to know me. He's really nice. He'll eat out of your hand & likes it when you pet him. He's so cute too. His little hands are just like human's & it's so cute to watch him eat. I'm sure there's a good reason why it's a bad idea to have a monkey - but I'm not going to try to think of it right now. The only thing I was thinking was vaccinations & there are people who do that here for chickens & goats. I'm sure PC would have my hide if they knew. I'm going to talk to the PCVL - Brenda - about it & see what he thinks. I hope I can have him - that would be so fun… & I'll always have a friend :). Did I tell you I'm going to learn how to make toffee? I think it's real easy - sweetened condensed milk & oil. That's it. The Chef's wife is going to show me how. The kids here either can't say my name or they're just pains. They call me Liki or Nikidee. Kwame calls me Nik-o-lie sometimes, which is funny because people at home called me that sometimes. And I spoke too soon on the polite kids. They all call me bruny - not all, but a lot of them. Some adults even do it, which is really annoying. How hard is it to know the name of the ONLY white person in the village. I finally started responding to them with "eebeero" - which is Koulango for black person. That caught them off guard a little. Has the pool opened yet? I'm going to miss swim lessons. I can't believe I'm saying that :). Those kids were so cute. I wouldn't mind playing a little tennis too. I'm really going to stink up the court when I come home. Did I tell you I'm going to teach an English class? I may have written it already, I can never remember who I already wrote it to :). Anyway, school lets out June 15 for 2 months. I'm going to have a class up at the school for anyone who wants to learn. So far a lot of people have said they're coming. But we'll see how many actually show up. I know Koffi really wants to learn it. I have that little paperback that we got right before I left with all kinds of helpful things in it - #s, $s, common phrases. So, I think I'll use that a lot. I'm going to go get some breakfast. I'll be back :).

May 24

It keeps threatening to storm, but it's yet to do so. The sky looks so cool. It's wide open (the village is) so you can see forever. The clouds are huge. The lightening is amazing & the sky is a pinkish color. You can see it raining in the distance, but I think it passed us again, which is really bad for the villagers & their crops. Today I was walking back from church & came upon this little boy - maybe 3 or 4 - but he didn't see me. When he turned around & saw me, his eyes popped out of his head & he screamed bloody murder. You could see the absolute terror in his face. It was sad. But it was kinda funny. The adults love it. They call me over just to scare the s*** outa this kid. They don't get too many "brunys" around here :). There's some freak here from France or Zaire - he said both - anyway, he's what they call a "fetisher", kind of a witch doctor. He practices traditional medicine (leaves, beads, mud…). For some reason, he keeps talking to me, and gave me his address in France. AND his cell # in Bondoukou. He gives me the creeps. He's black, but he looks white - like Michael Jackson. He's here with his son. He's trying to "cure" him…& apparently, this is a good place. He told me Diablo was in his son's head. OK, buddy. His son is mentally retarded. You can tell by looking at him. And he's at least 11 or 12. You'd think this guy would have given up by now. You'll never guess what I saw today - a man in shorts & a winter coat, one you would take skiing with you. AND, I saw some ski pants, bib kind, hanging on the line today…that means someone actually wore them. These people are odd. Tonight was pretty interesting. Kwame came in from the fields & literally collapsed in the house. He was really sick. Later, about 3 or 4 hours, Badoo came looking for me & said Kwame needed me. When I got there, they handed me a thermometer & everyone just looked at me like "ok. Go for it." They have a thermometer, but nobody knows how to use it. It was broken too. So, I used mine. And he had a 103.50 temp. They all looked at me after I told them but had no idea what it meant. My thermometer is only in F0 :). Anyway, they all asked me what they needed to do. I guess they think since I come from "civilization", I know what doctors know. It's gone down some & he feels better. But it just made me realize exactly where I am. And today, I think is the first day that the lonely feeling hit & I can see why this is tough. It's hard for me to find people I click with at home to hang out with all the time, or even just a lot. Here I can hang out with them, but it'll never be like at home. I'll always be the outsider. I'll always be sitting with everyone - clueless to the conversation because it's always Koulango. So, today I was a little lonely. But I'm better now. Good thing I like myself. This job could be unbearable. OK. Gonna go. I love you both & miss you so much. I'll see you tomorrow :). Good night!

May 25

My patience goes in waves. Right now I've had it. I got up this AM @ 6 because the old guy said he wanted to leave at 6:30. We left at 8. In the meantime, I ended up getting to talk to the guy who knows how to fix the pump here. Well, my French is ok, but this guy kept talking so fast. I used every bit of my energy to catch what he was saying. He was getting frustrated because he had to keep repeating himself. THEN, he just sat down to eat but kept talking. So, now I'm attempting to understand this impatient, fast talker, while doughnuts are falling out of his mouth. I wanted to kick him in the face. Thanks, Dad :). I'll give that one to you :). People here are pretty gross eaters. Patience is a virtue. But I at least kinda know what's going on. I talked to Kwame after I talked to him. They have to come up with 15,000 francs, which is a lot of money for them. Then, they have to come up with a way to collect $ after the pump is fixed. So if it breaks again, they can fix it. I hope we can get it fixed soon. It's a big pain in the ass to get water right now. I just got back from the river with Badoo & it's quite a haul. And it is really hot too. I don't know why I say that. It's always hot. But you'd be surprised at how refreshing shade can be with a breeze…& the mornings also. But after ~ 10 until ~ 6, it's hot. Africa hot. I'm glad I brought these pants too. Jeans are way too hot. Do you think you could send me a pair of my pants? They're red ones, thin. I think they're in the top of my biggest dresser. I wear my khakis & my gray pants all the time. My jeans are just too hot for here. I'm going to get some lunch - red beans & rice! Thanks! ~~ That red beans & rice is really garlicy…but it was still good. Maybe the mosquitoes will stay away now :). I just got back from my meeting with the other Ganse. They are all very excited I'm here. This isn't a big place, so word about the house situation travels fast. They aren't happy about it at all. And it's their culture to give me a place to sleep. They want me to work with them. But they want to give me a house first, before I do anything for them. So the "vieux" (old people) are going to round up the "jeune" (young people) & get my house going now, not in November. They are amazing. They keep saying "du courage" to me & that it is not good at all that I left my home to come help them & they don't have a house for me. I'm re-energized again. I'm excited about working with them. I'm going to go lay down for a little bit. I miss you!

May 26

Hey Mom & Dad! I just got back from the fields - an hour walk each way! They wouldn't let me work though. I got child care duties. I'll let it slide this time because I have blisters on my hands from yesterday's field work :). But, I want to work with them. It's a weird, almost uncomfortable, feeling. They are always asking me if I'm tired & they won't let me do anything. They're doing all the work - carrying the babies on their backs, 90# of firewood on their heads - & they're telling me to sit in the shade & rest while they work. I don't want them to think I'm a wuss. I want to work like they do - well, at least try. On the way back, though, I got to carry Kwadju (Badoo's son) on my back. It really is comfortable…I think more so than a back pack for kids. There's no strain on your shoulders at all. It really is nice. The only problem is the saggy boobs :). You have your choice - money for a chiropractor or a boob job :)! I'm starving. Gonna go eat. I'll be back later. I love you! ~~ I just learned 2 card games in French - talk about difficult…but they were easy & it was fun. Maybe I can teach them cribbage :). And I went to the river with Badoo & some of her friends again. They asked me why white people's noses are so long! She said I had a big nose! I said the same reason their butts are so big :)! They thought that was funny. They also said that I'm much prettier now because my skin isn't so "clear". I'm a nice "red" (but that's tan to us :)). That's good. Look out cancer, here I come! I've been putting sunscreen on my face & shoulders, but I sweat it right off. Anyway, I'm really stinkin' tired. This sun is relentless. I'm off to bed & tomorrow I'm washing my clothes at the river :). Good night! Sweet dreams! Hey, Mom, do you have dreams about me now --- that you forgot to get your passport or your shots, & got here but couldn't see me :) ??! I love you!

May 27

I'm feeling homesick this morning. I'm glad I'm going to Bondoukou tomorrow. That's one tough thing here…at home, after a long day at work, I can come home & hang out with you, or go out with my friends - anything that's different & with different people. Here, after a long day, I get to hang out with them until dinner, AND after dinner. Yippee. I go to bed at 8 every night just to be by myself. If I want to just chill & look at stars perhaps, I'm surrounded by people & Koulango. I want to just relax & enjoy the stars in peace & quiet. That's not possible so I lock myself in my house. It's the only sure fire way to get rid of them. They're just so stinkin' nice to me all the time, though, & do everything for me. I feel so rude wanting to get away from them. Too bad. That's me. I need my own time. Plus the people in Nassian have been out of town. So, there's no one to send my mail - so, I haven't gotten any mail for two weeks. I know there's some waiting for me, but it's just nice to get a little at a time too, sometimes. I'll probably be having the time of my life after lunch :). Hope you're having a good weekend. I miss you guys so much! ~~ I think I'm a 4 year old - I was so cranky this morning, then I slept from 11 - 12 & now I feel like a new person :)! I got up and ate a little with Kwame, then we played cards for a few hours. Kwame is a very laid back, go with the flow person. He just wants to have a good time. He's a good influence on a good mood, or a bad mood, I guess. Anyway, now I never want to come home :). I am still glad I'm going to Bondoukou tomorrow. I need a break & I really want to talk to you. Remember Kwasy - the kid I think has a crush on me…well, he and his buddy drew my tattoo on their legs in the same place. They are both kind of show-offs, a little arrogant, but I think it's the age :). I try to write things about this place that I may not tell you - seemingly insignificant things, but still things that make this place what it is… The women are constantly preparing food. The food they eat, as bad as it is, takes forever to prepare. For example, they make this food that's kind of a snotty consistency called "agba" - they take the manioc ( a root food), take off the skin (kinda like peeling a potato, but it's bigger & the skin is more like the bark of a tree so it's a lot more difficult), let it dry in the sun for a week or so, pound the hell out of it until it's in tiny pieces - then they sift the "flour" out of the tiny pieces & pound the tiny pieces again until they have mostly flour. Then, after all that, they put the flour with water over a fire & cook it until it's like snot. All that work, & it takes about what it looks like. Sometimes they'll eat just plain boiled igname - kinda like potatoes, also - & they call that "fast food". The food here is terrible, and, unfortunately, lacking in any nutritional value too. What little veggies they do eat, not only do they cook them to death, they crush them into a paste & mix it in the sauce. Now you see why I'm requesting mac-n-cheese. That stuff seems extra fortified next to what they eat! I really miss fruit. I don't get any fruit here except mangoes and those are finished - out of season. I crave fruit. I just have to eat tons when I can, like in Bondoukou or Abidjan. OK, gonna go get a little of this "empty" food :). I need to go to the grocery store :), so I'm eating their food now. No worries again. I'm still smiling & in a much better mood :). Hey, I decided that when I come home in 2003, for my first dinner home, I want tacos, fried shells, Killian's, fresh fruit & a blueberry pie :). Then, for breakfast, a big fat bowl of cold cereal with tons of ice cold skim milk! I better go before I lose my mind. I miss you! ~~ Something else that is strange here is people just bust right into your house. I was standing in the doorway & this woman just pushed me out of the way & started looking around. I have my vitamins out & she asked me if it was medicine, that she needed medicine for her sick baby. It's a very strange & uncomfortable feeling. I feel like the rich kid who won't share - but as soon as I give one person something as simple & 'cheap' as aspirin or vitamins - everyone will be asking. I feel bad because I want to give them stuff, but I can't. It's not why I'm here. I think it may actually make it worse. Finally, I told the lady I was going to bathe, so she left. It's very uncomfortable when people come in & start checking out the place. By American standards, this is a very meager existence, but I'm so rich to them. Sometimes, I feel like they don't like me because of it, or they're judging me because of it. I can't do anything but be nice to them & hope they see me, not my "money". Most people don't act like that, & they treat me like anyone else, which is nice, but the few who do act like that really stand out. I better go socialize some. I'll be back tomorrow. Goodnight & sweet dreams :)! -- Wait. I haven't gone to bed yet…there's this church song that I really like that Koffi just taught me the words to - in Koulango - but I'm gonna give 'em to you in French & English, too. (I thought Maw Maw might like to practice her French :}

It really has a catchy tune too. I'll teach it to you later :). Good night again!

May 28

I have a meeting this morning with the women in the village to discuss what we're gonna do about the pump. I needed to wash my clothes so I got up ~5:45 to start that. It's still a little dark in my room because there's only one tiny window. Well, I got out from under my net & shined my flashlight on my sandals, like I always do, to check for bugs…coast was clear so I stood in my sandals & started digging through my bucket for some clothes. I felt something on my leg & I swatted it. Damn mosquitoes already! Then I felt a second & a third one. So, I get my flashlight again & look… I've got ants all over my legs, crawling up. I'm standing in a sea of ants! So, I start slapping all the ants off me & figure out where they aren't so I can stand in peace til I can get them off me. I finally get them off me, but they've infiltrated both packs & there are eggs everywhere too. It's nuts. They weren't there last night at all. Those guys move fast! Kwame came in & saved the day. He said they're dangerous but I think he means they'll sting you. I don't think they'll make me sick or anything. Anyway, they're gone for now. Hope they're not here when I get back! When Kwame was in here, he saw my nasty dirty (because I run on a dirt road) running shoes & said why don't I wash them. That's the 4th or 5th time he's asked me that. They are really big on having clean shoes. I tried to tell him they would be that nasty the next time I run but that didn't make any sense to him. In the city, kids will come up to you & just start washing your shoes or sandals for $. I get to talk to you guys tomorrow! I bet you're a little worried because I said I was coming in for the weekend. No fear. But I'll tell you that tomorrow :). Gotta go talk to these women. I'll be back later! I love you! ~~ OK. Gonna stick this one in the mail. I'll write more soon. I can't wait to talk to you guys. I have so much I want to tell you. Hope you're having fun over there. Wish I could come hang out with you some. And maybe eat a little ice cream while I'm there :). I love you. Nik/Rock