June 28

Hey Mom & Dad!
I'm in Nassian now, waiting for the market & my furniture. Ely just told me my furniture isn't ready yet. He's a friend of Rebecca's - the girl who worked for WWF. He's the one who actually ordered my furniture for me - "Whitey" normally gets ripped off so he ordered it. I got tons-o-mail again! You guys are so awesome. It's such a rush to get the mail, see how everyone's doing & then get to write to you right away. I already got a response from Clif Bar! It was a pretty standard one, but they responded none the less. They gave me a website & phone number for ordering info & prices. I may check it out in Abidjan, but for now will wait for Eric's :). The red pants made it!! Thank you so much! I believe I'm set for pants now for the next 2 years. Thanks for the tape too…and as always, the grits are perfect! They make a good travel breakfast. That's what I eat in Bondoukou. Speaking of Bondoukou, the day before I left, I was sitting outside the wall with Melanie, Paul & the kids when I saw this 14 - 16 year old boy jog by right in front of the house with a cop on a moped right behind him - kinda like a coach trailing a player to make sure he keeps running. Anyway, strange…right? It gets worse. The kid was completely naked! We're talking not even shoes or socks!!! Hello?!? I asked Paul what was going on & he said it was probably the kid's punishment for stealing something. He said it was normal! Wake up, Niki…you're not in Kansas anymore. Normally when I come back to Nassian or Ganse, I go via bajan - but yesterday, Rebecca's boss for WWF was heading back to Nassian, so I got to ride with him. He is really nice & he does a lot of work up here in this region, even with Ganse. So I get to spend a little time getting to know him. Networking is a big thing here. This guy's name is Somorrow (sounds like tomorrow). I got letters from both Grandmas again. They're so awesome. It's so nice getting to talk to you on the phone as much as I do. This experience wouldn't be nearly as fun if I couldn't share it with you. I can't wait 'til you come over here & can actually see for yourself what it's like. I can't wait to travel around here too. I want to see as much of Africa as I can while I'm here. It's a lot easier to go to Europe from the States than it is to get back here. I'll start taking some pictures when I get back to the village. I hope my house is finished. I've got some weird skin thing going on too. It looks like poison ivy but I don't think they have it here. It's on my ankles, arms & hands mostly…& it itches like crazy. I think it might be scabies but I don't have a clue what that looks like. Well, I have my weight set finished. I may add more later. I can't wait to get started. I think I'm gonna go take a nap. Hope you're having fun over there. I'll be back later. ~~ I forgot to tell you, I got another letter from Julie & one from Leonard. Since our IST (in service training) was postponed, I won't get to see them :(. I really miss them & they both sounded like they were doing well. Julie said she's been getting the "bien grossi" compliments too. It sounds so pretty & not offensive when you say it in French. But she's near Liberia & they speak English there…she said it loses it's luster in the translation back to "fat"! I'm itching like crazy! I've got to figure out what this "poison ivy" thing is. It's killing me. Ely came over tonight to hang out & we wandered around Nassian just for something to do. He's really nice. Normally, I try to hide when I'm here because everyone wants you to come talk to them. But he's pretty cool & laid back. And he can take a hint when I'm ready to be by myself. BTW, you pronounce his name "a-lee", not "ee-lie". Think I'll go write to April some then hit the sack. It was so nice talking to you the other day; I miss you a lot…but it's not as bad as I thought it would be :). Maybe I'll just stay over here! Good night. Bonne nuit!

June 29

I'm sorry to be reporting from the same house I was in before I left. Kwame says the cement is here & they hauled the sand in by hand, but that does me no good. I killed his dog & said if it's not finished by next Friday, his first born is next. I don't think I'll have any more problems out of Kwame. Yes. I'm in the same cramped, miserable house but I'm on fire. I'm listening to Kinchafoonee for the second time through tonight! Music puts you in such a good mood. And I've put a mat in the middle of my nasty ass floor so I can start lifting weights & doing sit ups again. Everything was COVERED in bat shit when I got back, but it gives me a reason to clean, right?! I brought tons of good food back from Nassian too…tomatoes, onions, cokes, eggplant, garlic, pineapple, oranges - YIPPEE! FRUIT!! I forgot eggs again but who needs protein anyway. There's a big fete (party) tomorrow for the students - end of the year thing. I'm breaking out the camera & the African apparel (I know I butchered that word. {editor's note - she did…but I have spell check!})…pagnes that should be burned if ever worn together. You'll see the pics! There's going to be traditional dancing with bongos, lots of football, & they're killing several moutons. They all think they'll be able to teach me how to dance "comme chez nous". (That means "you're in our house now…dance like it!") They have no idea how entertained they're going to be. Oh, Kwame got a new puppy today. It is so adorable. He named it something in Koulango (I forgot), but it means "we love you". Dogs get abused here. They all cower when you move towards them. It's kinda sad. Anyway, I better get to bed. I've got a big day ahead of me. I miss you & I love you!

June 30

The festivities begin in 15 minutes. It's going to be a long day! I'm going to take a lot of pictures of everyone in the village. People are going to be attacking me for my camera - "take a picture of me, take a picture of me!!" Then they strike a cheesy pose…& don't smile. It would be perfect if I could be a fly on the wall. But I can't. I need some spy glasses with a hidden camera. THAT would be perfect. Yesterday we were wandering around & saw these guys hanging out listening to this huge boom box…connected to a car battery. They are resourceful here. OK. I'm outa here. Gotta get in the party mood. Have a good day! ~~ I've got 10 minutes then I'm outa here again. Today has been so much fun. They had all kinds of people here…everyone was dressed their best. The "MC" killed me though…(I got a picture.)…t-shirt with a tie! I did a bad job of labeling pictures this roll. So send me the print. They had a beauty contest for the petites. The girls got all dolled up in traditional dress…I got to be a judge. The smallest one in the picture is my favorite. That's who I picked. Her name is Soginaw (sew-gin-naw, hard "g"). The 2 bone heads judging with me picked another girl. There were 9 girls & we had to judge them on a scale of 1 -10. Then we add up all the points. Viola…the winner. So, after the last one, Moe & Curly start adding up each one & dividing by 3. Slow enough as it is, but they were doing this painful process with their feeble minds. So, I took the paper, added everyone's points up…viola - the winner. There were 2 with the same points. So I said "there…we just have to pick between the 2". They said no…we have to know what the average is. Why? Beats the hell out of me. And on top of that, they gave Soginaw 2nd & the other girl 1st because "somebody has to win & we saw the other girl first." I couldn't have cared less. It was their stupidity that infuriated me. This is pushing noon. Niki's getting hungry. Lon story short - we don't eat 'til 2:30! But it was FABULOUS! It was only rice & sauce, but the sauce was so good. My "twin" (they call her Adja-ibiro & me Adja-bruny) made it…and she's gonna show me how to make it. Then we dance to the bongo players. It was so much fun. Who knew bruny could dance?! After we danced a while, the football match got underway. I was the only girl, but the guys were all late teens - early 20s. They were all very nice, saying I played well, blah blah blah. They took it easy on me but they still seemed to have a good time. I headed the ball a lot. I think that surprised 'em. We tied though & in Coach K's words, it's like kissing your brother. But I figure I'm in the football capital…if they're fine with it, so be it. OK. The camera issue…GOOD LORD! I need that spy camera. Now. Everyone…take a picture of this, of me, of us, of that… I know it's not that big of a deal, but it's of dumb stuff. And it's EVERYONE. The camera turns them into jackasses. And of everything, Koffi is the only person who has yet to ask me for anything - to take his picture, for acadeaux (gift). Every6ne asks me for stuff, but it's not rude here. So, I took one roll today… I'll take more later. But I can't enjoy myself because everyone is constantly asking. So, I'm leaving it in the house tonight. We're dancing until morning. That's the word anyway. I'd give it my all but I know I won't make it. It'll be fun trying. I can't wait 'til you check this place out. The women were so fun today. I wanted to take just random crowd shots of all the women with scarves & pagnes on their heads, babies on their backs & decked out in the best colors! It was awesome but as soon as I expose the camera, they all pose and lose the smile. So I don't do it. That's not how I want to remember them. Anyway, I better get some food in me if I'm gonna make it tonight. Wish me luck!

July 1

Well, July is already here! Last night was a lot of fun… I danced 'til midnight & when I left, everyone was still going strong! They danced until now, the AM! I had fun dancing with my friends but there were a lot of people there I didn't know…& those guys would have gotten punched if they had danced like that at home. They were literally pulling me - 2 at a time - to dance with them. It was pretty obnoxious. I've never felt so much like a piece of meat :). I guess everyone wanted to dance with the American. I said I'm dancing with everyone…let go of me. Some got a little pissy but I don't care. It was so much fun because EVERYONE was dancing. And 90% of them hadn't had anything to drink. I hope they do it again soon… I'll try to make it past 12! Badoo has been getting on my nerves lately… Before I went to Bondoukou the last time, she asked me to buy her some jelly, clothes & shoes for her son & shoes for her. But she didn't give me any $$. Then, when I got back, that was one of the first things she asked me - where's my stuff? Then yesterday, she flat out asks me to pay for this shirt she wants. I said no, flat out. Then she asks to wear one of my tank tops. I gave her my nasty field one that I don't care what happens to it. Next request, I'm telling her it may be different here, but in the States, if I want to give her something, I will… Asking like that is rude. I'm quickly losing patience here again. If, when I leave Wed, my house isn't ready, I'm going to Bondoukou until Brendon gets back (~ one week). The house is making me crazy. OK. I'm not getting on that. It's time for church. Have a wonderful Sunday! ~~ The physical contact in this culture will take me the full 2 years to get used to. These grown men insist on having their arms around me & holding my hand, while joking around that I'm their wife & we need to have babies. I watch them with the other women to see how they act, or react. It just seems like they do it to me more. Guess I better get used to it. Last night, the school director basically asked me to go back to his place with him, because you can't sleep well when you're all alone. I told him I sleep better that way…nobody's there to talk to you :). Hey, do you think you could send me a couple packs of sugar free gum? I don't care what kind - Care Free or something like that. My teeth are on a steady decline, I think. They're more sensitive now than they were. Well, I was going to go to Bondoukou if my house wasn't ready Wed, but I can't now because we are going to visit Wekele (kinda sounds like 'wickilee') with Kwame on Monday. It's a Lobie village about 6 km behind Ganse. But if the house still isn't finished, I'm leaving after we come back from Wekele. Each time I come back, my patience disappears quicker. I think I've already listened to my Kinchafoonee tape about 6 or 7 times all the way through! The Buffett tape is kinda messed up. I need to try to fix it. I'll be back later. The girls are playing soccer today! We'll see how that goes :).

July 2

The soccer game wasn't exactly what I expected…it was a bunch of girls ~12 - 20ish, & it was complete herd ball. Not only that, but they would pull on each other & slap each other…pick up the ball wherever. I just watched. I didn't know how to play that game. The party went through last night… I've had one more dinner… It was really nice. I always get invited because I'm the American. People were asking me all kinds of things about the States…about sports, what I do for entertainment, about the history of the US. That last one stumped me :). They said "tell us the history of the US"… So, I said what do you want to know? They kept asking me as if there was one story of set facts. It's funny to listen to them talk about the States because they think they know so much about it…& if I wasn't here, they could get away with it & impress their friends…no dice :). I correct 'em. It's Monday & there's been no move toward my house. I'm thinking it won't be finished by Friday. I may take this "opportunity" of no house & go to Abidjan to have my teeth looked at. I've got 2 that are really sensitive. PC will do everything. I don't have to pay. I'm gonna go work on this book a little then head to the garden. Have a good one :). ~~ I was heading to the garden when I saw one of my friends…who speaks as much French as I speak Koulango. She motioned for me to follow her into this house to see something. It was a lady & her newborn…newly born only 5 hours previous! She was so tiny & white! I said she was Adja-bruny like me :). They thought it was funny. I've never held a newborn before. And I could probably count on one hand how many times I've held an infant. I think I'm like you, Mom…I'll take 'em when they get older. That's scary. She was so tiny…& so dependent. No way…not for a long time… You'll be lucky to get any! The garden looks good… Koffi has done a ton of work on it - the corn, tomatoes, squash, onions, peppers & fuccini are coming up already. He's planted a ton. It's impossible to water it all. If I was doing it, I would have made a smaller garden because I can't water it all. Koffi gets petites to bring water up in the big tubs on their heads… It's easier for them. I can't wait 'til you guys see it. I can't wait to see you. I really miss you. I'm gonna go get some more work done on this English class. Have a WONDERFUL evening… Eat something yummy for me that I can't eat here :). ~~ OK. Let's see if I can explain what just happened… Let me preface it by saying this is one big family - everyone is related to everyone in some way or another (one guy even said "we share" - nice). So, the Chef's Mom died 6 months ago. She lived in the other Ganse. When she died, here sister took her place in Ganse. The new woman's son just came today for a visit…his first time back here (& the first time to see his Mom) in 22 years. His Mom had to ask him how many kids he has. The Chef hasn't been to the other Ganse since his Mom died 6 months ago. It's not far. I guess he's just lazy. Anyway, the Chef's cousin came to visit so they have to go make the rounds & see everyone. The Chef takes his rifle with us & as we're entering Ganse, he fires it & he & his cousin & Kawme start wailing like the Merry Widows…shrill, high pitch (too high for men if you ask me). I thought they were kidding because they did it immediately after the gun shot. But they were really crying. Then everyone just gathered around to greet him officially. Everyone gawked at me for a bit. Then we left. It was the weirdest thing. And I'm becoming friends with the boutique men. They come from Niger. They are really nice. And they ask me a lot about America too. They were excited when I told them I wanted to know good places to visit in Niger. Maybe one day I'll make it over there. I ran the trails to the fields this morning & I'm covered in red blotches. I must be allergic to some plant back there. I guess I'll go back to the boring dirt road. OK. I'm off to bed…I'll see you in the morning. I have a meeting with the women to figure out how we're going to get the money for the pump part (somebody boofed the money we had) & who is going to go get the part in Bouake. Wish me luck!

July 4

Happy Fourth of July!! They're having a cookout & a ton of fireworks for me today :). OK. Seriously, I'm going to work in the garden then head to Nassian 'til Friday. The mason is working on the house today. It just might be ready on Friday! Do you think you could send me some toothpaste :)? I just finished my first tube & I've got one more. It'll probably last 'til you get here…but just in case. They have toothpaste here. But none with tartar control. My teeth need all the help they can get. (I like Crest original paste with tartar control :) Oh yeah…we had a meeting with the village about the water pump. I told them I located the piece we need in Bouake & how much it was. Kwame said there was ~25,000 francs in the "case" (probably a shoe box where they keep the money)…then he said somebody boofed it. Then at the meeting, they said there was ~30,000 francs. So, I know the piece is there. I just have to see with my own eyes if the $ is there. Then we can get the repair man to come fix it & we've got WATER!! Random…they have flour in the boutique here & I was craving something sweet…so, I mixed flour, oatmeal, sugar & oil ?? ??? want…tastes like cookie dough :)! I'm surprised it took me so long! I could bake them in my "oven", but things tend to burn on the bottom. And the boutique is out of air bake sheets. I'm gonna go see if I can help with the house… I'll see you later. Tonight, you guys have to eat grilled burgers & baked beans for me…& a couple cold ones… with some blueberry pie :).

July 5

Yesterday started out goo enough… I got up, Kwame was heading to the new house with 4 bags of cement - YIPPEE!! So I went along to help. We worked until about 1:45, when I was about to pass out from hunger. Then I packed my stuff for Nassian & waited by the road for the bajan. It comes anywhere between 3:30 and … Yesterday was the worst "and". Around 5:30, Michel, the guy who runs the ferry with the Pirate, came & told me that the bajan was broken down… They sent someone to get a new tire. Great. S I go to the garden & work a little. When I come back from the garden, Badoo & Koffi both bring me food because they knew I was waiting for the bajan & didn't fix anything. They are awesome. So we eat. Then I hear someone say the bajan needed 2 tires. Great. I'm not going anywhere. So I drag my bags back to the house. About 8:30, they're yelling the bajan's coming..so I rush back up there to the road to wait. And hour & 15 minutes later, there's a car but it's not the bajan. The Pirate was on this car, though & said he saw the bajan ~15 km away…& it needed 3 tires! Good grief. Now it's ~10:15 & I'm way past my bedtime (& I didn't have a nap). AND, I know now that I won't get to Nassian 'til tonight. No biggie, really. But I wouldn't have been able to go to the post office & I really wanted to get some mail because I was feeling homesick. So, at this point, I'm so disappointed because I won't be able to go to the post office. I'm tired. I can't get the furniture for my new house… So, I admit defeat & go back to the house. I tried saying "I'm just frustrated" in French, but they don't understand it. So, I'm pouting & trying not to be pissy because Koffi is really trying to help me. But I was on the verge of tears. And, on top of that, as I'm walking back to the house, everyone's wondering why I'm not leaving…but talking to me in Koulango. I can barely force a smile at this point. I'm sure as hell not in the mood for Koulango. Finally, I get back to the house (10:30), tell Koffi I'm just going to bed, unpack my bag because my pillow's at the bottom, and collapse with disappointment & defeat. Around 11:30, I wake up to Badoo banging on my door yelling "the bajan's here!" I was out of it. So, I rush to pack my bag again & race up to the road to get on the bajan. So, I got on the bajan & got here at 2AM. I deserve the crappy PCV of the month award. They do nothing but help me…feed me…give me a house…get me water…flag down the bajan, (ask for gifts!) - and all I do is be a baby because I won't be able to go to the post office. I feel like crap today. They probably don't think anything of it…but still… So, when I get back tomorrow, I think I'll have a house waiting for me!!! And I've got to start acting like a grown up :). Anyway, I wanted to tell you that in this letter before I go to the post office. I didn't label the film, but I will. Can you send me all the pictures from this roll. I know they're gonna want them. And the pictures mean so much to them. It's the least I can do. I think you're already doing this, but send pics in a zip-loc…in case it gets wet. I'll take more pictures of my new house when I get in there. I miss you & I love you. Hope you're having fun over there! Tell everyone hi for me. I love you. Nik/Roc