July 5

Hey Mom & Dad!
Are you tired of typing these yet?! I'll have a novel by the time I come home! Still here in Nassian…just got back from the maquis with Rebecca. She's leaving tomorrow for Bondoukou then for the States on the 10th. She is super cool. I like her a lot. Before we went out though, I had a little "chat" with Ely, the guy who lives here in Nassian… He worked with Rebecca a lot. Anyway, he's helped me a lot with furniture & some other things, too & he's friend of the "PC" here so he comes over to the house to hang out sometimes. Well, today he come over & asked me if I'd be his girlfriend?! He's at least 30, which is fine, but these people act like we're in 5th grade…I like you…will you be my "girlfriend"? Well, I guess what else are they gonna say…wanna go grab a bite to eat at the Foutou Bar & Grill then go watch the mosquitoes mate? Good grief! He said if I said no, I'd be hurting him terribly & he knows I'm nice & won't make him suffer. I tell everyone here that I'm married & my husband is coming over after a little bit. But they don't care. Girls get that a lot here. But I'm disappointed that it's coming from Ely. It's gonna be weird now around him. He kept saying "think about it. You can tell me tomorrow." I told him I thought about it & my answer is no. The last thing he said before he left was "think about it. I know you won't make me suffer. I know you like me." UUUHHHHHGG! Give it a rest. These people think it's unhealthy if you don't have a boyfriend…well, if you're not having sex. I asked some PCVs if it was OK to visit other PCVs & if a guy came to visit, can he stay in my house or would that be just totally disrespectful to my village. Every PCV said my village would be so happy that a guy was staying at my house & they would think we're having sex…but that's good…they think I'm gonna get sick because I sleep solo every night! I thought they were conservative here with women. Apparently you can sleep with whoever you want, drink as much cutacoo as you can take…as long as your skirt goes past your knees. Enough about that pest. I got a package today from Jo from work again. She is so awesome! She sent me some stickers & candy & a really nice card. She sent some magazine catalog pics of Hickory Farms, that place where you order cheese & beef jerkey type stuff - and asked me what I wanted…but I don't know if she was serious. Ask her could she send me a gallon of cold skim milk :). I can't wait to get my package from Sherreen. She may have sent it to Bondoukou. I'll check in a few weeks. And the pictures of Chris' kids. They sure are cute…just can't believe he's a family of 4 already. In case you missed it on the package, try to put pics & grits in zip-locs. The ants have been building colonies in between the grits packets & their funk gets on the pictures. Thank you so much for the grits. I love them. They have oatmeal over here. It's even Quaker. That's what I normally eat but it gets old. Hey, could you send me some more grape SF kool-aid - not 40 boxes, just some :). I drink so much kool-aid, my stash is dwindling. The generic Crystal Lite stuff is good too…or whatever you have in the pantry. (The stuff I wouldn't drink before will taste like heaven now :).) You both look great in the pictures. And, Mom, the picture you took of the flowers on your back porch looks awesome! The colors really look bright. Do you ever eat sardines? They eat a lot of them here…from the can, I mean. They aren't too bad actually. Don't know where that came from. I better get to bed…got in at 2 last night & it's already almost 10! I'm getting outa control over here :). I love you & miss you very much. Good night!

July 6

Today has been one of the more interesting ones so far. First, the bajan was absolutely jammed. I had to leave my big table there because there was no room on top. There were 6 of us crammed in the cab. They would have been arrested at home. My house is almost finished. The hardest part, the floor, is finished. They're putting netting on the windows & closures on the windows & plastic on the ceiling. Right now it's just straw, & bats & wasps go to town on it. Today was another good "I feel like I've been here for years" day because everyone's just hanging out having a good time & I can talk to them…(well, for the most part :)). I sprayed bug stuff on the crops with Koffi them came back & ate dinner with the crew (Badoo, Kwame, Badoo's Mom & some others). Remember that dark green nasty snotty looking stuff I described not too long ago? Well, now I love it! Badoo's Mom makes it with this awesome sauce made with okra. I crave it. I can't believe it! You're gonna laugh when you come over here & watch me eat. After diner, Kwame & I went over to another Kwame's house (the secretary of the village) just to hang out a little. It was so fun because I could have a conversation with them! This is when it turned interesting though… Marriage is a HUGE topic of conversation - why I'm not married, that I need to marry an Ivorian, I need to marry them… It's non-stop. Sometimes it's amusing, like tonight. Other times, I want to puke on them, like Ely. So, after discussing who I'm gonna marry, Kwame (Secretary) asks me about the pill…& if people use that or condoms in the States. Then he asks me what I prefer! I'm just hanging out with the men, discussing my choice in BC. Talk about weird! But it's not nearly as "taboo" as it is at home (obviously…it's me & 5 men). But this is actually pretty good because I can ask them about sex here & how people are about EVERYTHING from buying condoms, to diseases, to monogamy - whatever. I asked if people talk to the students. They said not here, but Kwame thinks it's a good idea. That's good for me because I can do sensibilizations at the school for BC, aids… So I asked Kwame where people buy condoms & how much they are. You can get them here & they are only 25 francs (same price as a sucker or 2 pieces of gum or one doughnut)! I wanted to see if they were the same. They are. I took one out of our medical kit to show Kwame & everyone else - 1st sex ed lesson :). It was hilarious! They were telling me all the names for it - slang names - & Kwame was telling me he used to blow them up & hang them in his house for decoration! As he was saying this, he had blown up the condom I gave him & tied a string to it, like the punching balloons kids play with. I almost peed on myself I was laughing so hard. Now it's almost 10 & I can barely finish this letter. So, I'm heading to bed now. I'll be back tomorrow. Good night. I love you!

July 7

I FINALLY got my tank top back from the gimp tailor. I gave it to him 2 months ago! It looks nothing like the drawing I gave him. It's way too big & the seams are all crooked. At least he didn't mess up & put sleeves on it. It can still pass for a tank top in some fashion worlds. {…editor's note - here, the writing started fading and the ink color changed…she obviously changed pens…} Have I ever mentioned how much the pens suck over here? I've never before appreciated a decent pen as much as I do now. By the way, I know I've told you several times, but thank you so much for the grits. They taste much better over here I think. I eat them for dinner too (given the alternative sometimes). I think when you guys come over here, that's what I'll have you stuff your bags with…that & Clif Bars & a Diet Dr Pepper. Do you think marshmallows would survive? I burn my trash… I could have a campfire! I think I'm gonna go nap… Have a good afternoon!

July 8

I've had a really good time since I've been back from Nassian. I feel really comfortable here now. I'm sure I've got plenty of "what the hell am I doing here" days left. But for now, it's awesome. Last night, I made pasta salad for everyone. They LOVED it. So we ate pasta salad, agba (green snotty stuff) & sauce gumbo (okra sauce), all with our hands :)! I LOVE this place! After dinner, Kwame & I walked around saying hi & hanging out with people. It's awesome because everyone hangs out outside. And last night, the moon was full & so bright. They call it "current gratuit" (free electricity :)). It was a lot of fun. And people are dying to get this English class started. It looks like I'm gonna have a big turn out. Koffi's gonna do a French class for those who want it. (A lot of people don't finish school.) I told them we'd start the English class when my house was ready :). I've got some good material from stage, but it's all packed away. So, when I get into the house, I can unpack. Oh - I found AA batteries here at the boutique - two for 100 francs. (That's very cheap.) Even if they only work one day, I can get a week's worth of batteries for less than a dollar. I'm gonna try those. It'll be cheaper than you buying them & sending them. So, don't buy any more for me. Thanks for sending the other ones though. When I went running this AM, on my way back, I ran into Kwame running… I think we're gonna run together in the mornings. That will actually be good. I need some motivation. It's hard to do the same thing every morning, but there's not much alternative. We're biking to Wekele tomorrow - a Lobie village about 6 - 8 km away. We'll probably be trashed on the way home. Lobies are known to be some serious drinkers. I'm excited to see what another village looks like. I'm gonna head to the garden. I'll be back later. ~~ They had a little party tonight to celebrate a new baby - the one I saw last week just hours after she was born. They don't name the baby until one week has passed. It's bad luck. If the baby dies & you named it (in the first week), the name becomes cursed. I think there's a lot of sorcery type stuff here. If something bad happens, it's because someone put a "spell" on you or something. Basically, if they don't know why it happened (logically speaking), then a genie did it. It's pretty interesting. Oh - I just thought of something you can send me…decaf tea, family bags & lots of Equal. Send Equal like you send grits :). I'll use the Equal every morning in my oatmeal & can use it for my drinks too. The Muslims drink a lot of green tea (like the Pirate, in the cute little tea pots). It is so strong. There's a very specific way of doing it too. It's pretty neat to watch. The garden is doing pretty well so far. The only things that didn't work so far were the carrots, leeks, pumpkin & melon. The squash is growing like a weed. And the tomatoes, green beans, peppers & corn are all doing pretty good. Koffi & I have to water it every day but it doesn't take long with both of us. He's a really good guy. I'm so thankful he's here. This wouldn't be nearly as enjoyable. He seems the most like me. He's pretty educated & is still continuing - most people aren't very educated. And we joke around like I would do at home. In fact, it was kinda funny the other day…for some reason, he was talking about Ms America & Ms France. He said he saw them on TV. He said they were absolutely gorgeous. (I'm loosely translating by the look on his face when he said it.) Then he said among the guys, they would say "she's gonna break my bed" or "she's gonna cut my sheets" or "she's gonna wear out my mattress." Nice, Koffi. I guess some things are the same in every culture :). But I'd say that was a pretty big step in our friendship. I mean there's not much we don't talk about. It's pretty obvious he considers me one of the guys now. (Again, I guess some things are the same in every culture :).) I'm excited for him that he's going back to school because it'll be good for him. But I'm definitely gonna miss him. We hang out a lot. It's not as fun with everyone else. I have a mouse in my house again. He snacked on my tomatoes last night, the bastard. He's lucky I'm moving. We're not going to Wekele tomorrow after all because the king there is sick. We're going next Monday instead. Well, I guess I'll go to bed. I'm beat & it's already past 10. You know, I could do nothing here & just relax & sleep all the time. But I'm going all day. I'm never bored. I nap sometimes…or hang out in the house & write, but it's because I have to tell you about all this stuff. I'm up at 5:30 & out & about 'til bedtime. I don't really even eat by myself anymore. I feel kinda rude, like I'm better than they are. So, I try to eat with them. It's always Kwame's family that I eat with. They really take care of me. I can't wait 'til you meet them, even though all you'll be able to do is smile & wave :). You'll get a taste of what it was like for me the first few months :). But it's worth it. I can just hang out with people now & not be stressed that they're gonna try to talk to me. Man, this is kinda like on the phone…about 15 lines ago I said I was going to bed & here I still am :). I love you. Sleep tight :).

July 9

Good morning! I just got back from running. Kwame runs with me so it makes me run faster. I'm DEAD. We ran for 53 minutes two days in a row. It's good for me. I need a little discipline :). We're cleaning up the yard at the house today since we aren't going to Wekele. Kobina, the mason, is finishing up the floor so I think I'll be able to move in tomorrow or Wed! FINALLY! It only took 3 months. I can unpack! Then I'll really feel at home. It's so nice to finally, after 6 months, feel like I belong somewhere. Kwame's family is basically my family here. Like Monga, everybody is like family here (because everyone's related in one way or another!), but it's Kwame's family that really takes care of me. When I go to the market, I try to bring something back for them like bread or okra for dinner. You're gonna love 'em. They are very patient with me. Some schmuck just came over… Some people are really weird here. He talked for 10 minutes straight. I quit listening after a while. I have to concentrate so much to understand some people. And he was talking about, for 10 minutes, that when I get back to the States, I can still carry water on my head. Hello, moron. We have running water. He said he knows, but it's just for the "sport" of it…basically for the exercise. Right. I can start a new trend. I have to be nice, though. Here, that's tough with the guys. I have to be nice…but when I am, they think that means I want them. So, I have to watch myself. And them. Some of them are a little too forward for my comfort. The schmuck who was just here, his name is Foofee Dungo. It's hard not to laugh sometimes when they say their names. I'm getting used to it. OK. I'm gonna go work on the house. ~~ I was at the house helping Kwame today when Koffi came by with a "commission" (that's what they call it when you send something, like a note, on the bajan). Ely, the schmuck in Nassian, sent it to me. He started out by saying "I'd like to say hi & I give you my whole heart because "je t'aime". Rebecca told me that just means I like you…but I asked Koffi about it & he said it's rude & too forward…you don't say that to someone in this situation. After he said that, he said he has a problem…his boss hasn't yet paid him & he wants me to give him 50,000 francs. Are you *@?!*&!? kidding me?! But he's gonna pay me back when he gets paid. So I think I'll give it to him. Right! So, Koffi & Kwame are covering for me… Ely sent the note on the bajan this AM & he wants me to send the $ on the bajan this afternoon that goes to Nassian. Koffi is going to tell the bajan driver that I'm not here…that I went to another village for the day. Ely is supposed to come to Ganse on Wed, and he's bringing a piece of furniture for me. (He's coming here for work with the village - not for me.) I expressed my concern to Kwame & Koffi that if I didn't send him the $, he wouldn't bring my bookshelf. That's why they're covering for me. I can't believe this. What a sorry excuse for a "friend". Oh well, I guess I'll just have to avoid him. And when I see him, try not to wring his neck. Oh, I was going to tell you…today, after we ran, Kwame was talking about wrestling here. There are some people who have TVs that run off car batteries! Anyway, in French they call it "catch" instead of wrestling. And Kwame loves it. He was getting all into it describing everyone & their names & trademark moves. It was really funny. I told him I wanted to watch it one day to see how different it is. I'll keep you posted :). I'm not writing down the pictures on this roll of film either. Sorry. It's such an ordeal to take pictures here. I try to minimize the hassle. Today, I took some of people working on the house. There's one of Kwame putting plastic up under the roof, one of Kwame & Koffi sitting on a tree outside the house & one of the old women "mudding" the walls. I can't wait to see them. BTW, I don't think I'm spelling any of their names correctly…probably a bunch of other things too, but it works for now :). I'm gonna take a nap. Bye :).

July 10

I think it might actually rain today. But I don't want to jinx it. All their crops - their lives - are drying up. It's pretty serious. But they just laugh. Yesterday, Koffi showed me this little card/pocket calendar. It was handed out at school. It has vacation dates, calendar, some metric measurements…and a chart of a female's menstrual cycle & the "danger zone" for getting pregnant. Now there's something you won't see very often at home. Koffi asked me if I knew about that because a young girl was asking him about it. She wanted me to explain to her when it's OK to have sex & NOT get pregnant! At least she's concerned, I guess. I told Koffi that it's possible at any point to get pregnant. While I wouldn't bet my life on that, if you say anything less, the girls will believe they can have unprotected sex & be OK - as long as they're not in the "danger zone". So, that's why I told him that. It is possible to pregnant any day, isn't it? That will be a very good sensibilization for me to do at the school. Anyway, last night, I got all kinds of info from Koffi about sex here & the social attitudes about it. People are more afraid of pregnancy than disease. But I think that probably goes for the States too. Condoms are really cheap here, which is good, and he said his friends use them. I don't think he's just blowing smoke. He also said homosexuality is not accepted at all. In fact, I think it might be against the law. Tough to arrest someone on that I guess, but theoretically, you could be put in jail for it. I asked him if people think you'll get sick if you don't have sex. He said he didn't believe that, but a lot of people do. It was funny. He actually said if that were true, there would be a lot of dying people. He also said there's peer pressure to have sex, like the States… He said, often, if the guy wants to wait, the girl will think "il ne fonctionepas" {spelling? … could not read her writing…and I don't know how to spell it…ed} meaning "it doesn't function". It's really funny to hear the words they use to describe things…especially this one. Anyway, that'll be a good project for me. I've been looking through the Lonely Planet guide for good places to go… I wish you guys could come for a month! Maybe you can all come back when I'm finished & travel. Burkina-Faso had some neat places, the Dogon Country in Mali and some stuff in Ghana. I can't wait to check these places out…wish you could do it with me. I need to write to Monga & let them know if I'm coming in August. The Cardinal is coming & there's a huge party at the church. I really want to go. But it's gonna be hard to get away when I start this English class. I may go for about a week. I need to get my tooth looked at in Abidjan. I think I'll go get some work done at the house. ~~~ No work yet because IT'S RAINING!! Finally! It's rained maybe 4 times in the almost 3 months that I've been here. It is desperately needed. At least we don't have to water the garden today :). I meant to tell you, last night Koffi said that lately a bunch of villagers have said they really like me because I'm not complicated like the "femme noir" (black women). I'll eat their food, live in their home, work in the fields… The women here do that too, but Koffi said it's because I'm American. They know there's more in the States and I think they just can't understand why I'd want to come here to be with them for 2 whole years. I may have said this already but there's a picture of Koffi & Kwame sitting on a tree outside my new house. Koffi's on the left & Kwame on the right - just so you can start putting a face with a name. (That's on the roll I haven't sent yet :).) I'm gonna go read a bit. I'm going to Nassian tomorrow. So, I have plenty of time to start a new book. I miss you! ~~~ OK. I've got a good one for you tonight… Often I run across someone who can speak a little English - by little, I mean about as much as I speak Koulango. But usually, they think they know more & try to show off in front of their friends. Well, tonight, this guy kept insisting on speaking English, even though he made no sense. He asked me "do you here with English?" about 7 times until he finally asked me in French if, in America, it rains from above or below?! I asked him in French if he meant does the rain fall from the sky or come up from the ground & he said yes. So, I said "it falls from the sky, moron, just like it does here". And he said "ooh" as he was deep in thought as if we were discussing nuclear reactors. When I got back to the house, I had a bowl full of oranges and about 6 mangoes waiting for me! I don't think I've ever been so excited about fruit! I don't know what I did before mangoes… They are, hands down, my favorite fruit of all time. I ate agba & sauce gumbo again tonight. LOVE that stuff! I watched her make it too. So, now I'll be able to make it. All it is is water, okra, salt & peppers & it is awesome! I took some good pics today too. I have a lot of Kwaju, Badoo's son. He is so cute & he's just starting to walk. I said I'm spelling these names wrong. I think Kwaju is actually like Koulango. But since you can't hear it & I can't spell :), I'll spell it "fanetikly" :). Today was another really good day. I really like it here and I really like the people. It's easy to get discouraged when I fing myself looking at the big picture of CI - this country is so messed up, I don't see how it will ever function well. But I'm here in the village and I can help here and maybe make a difference in a couple lives in Ganse. Oh yeah, about the pump…someone boufed the $ :). So now we can't get the piece to fix the pump. The funny thing is, they know who did it & they just laugh. "Yeah. The secretary of the village boufed 17,000 francs." Whatever works for them. OK. Gonna go to bed. Good night & sweet dreams.
July 12
Since I've only got a few lines, I'm saying goodbye. I'm in Nassian & want to go to the post office. I'll start a new letter today…talk to you soon - maybe a week or 2. I love you! Love Nik/Rock