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"
what'zup?
rats
& zip lock bags
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July 28 - August 12, 2001 letter #23 Dateline: Ganse, Cote d'Ivoire, West Africa Hey Mom & Dad! I forgot to tell you something. This would make you crazy, Dad. There is no such thing as "on time" here. Whenever they tell me what time something starts, they say "l'heure Africaine" - that's African time. Sometimes I'll be walking a little faster than normal & someone will shout out "time is money" in English. Friday was our first class & it was supposed to start at 1:00 or 2:15. It's amusing here. It would be the death of me at home. Naptime. I'll be back after class. ~~~ Well, class was cut short because it poured down rain. That means less work in the garden :). There are some guys here doing research on mosquitoes. They were here when I first got here & they're here again now for about a week. They "hire" villagers to stay up all night catching mosquitoes in little test tubes. The guy who does the research is really cool & he always invites me to come watch & check out the little buggers under the scope. If I can get my lazy butt out of the bed tomorrow, I'll go check it out. The chauffeur just came by the house to say hi. That's weird to me here. I just met him yesterday when he was leaving for Bouake. When he came back last night, he brought me 2 coconuts - fresh. They were quite tasty. Tonight, he gave me another one & asked me what time I go to bed. Odd question. Well, he just showed up to say hi. It's 8:45. I don't know when guys are being nice or if it's the Ivorian way of putting the moves on me. One of the things they (the formateurs) said was guys will give you little gifts when they like you like food. So, I try to have Koffi or someone here with me when I have new guests over. But I didn't know he was coming. Oh well, no harm done. Now it's time for bed. So, I'll see you tomorrow. Goodnight. I love you & miss you so much! I just got back from Kwame's (the secretary of the village) house. He had some friends in town & invited me over for dinner. Basically, it was "hanging out with the men & drinking cutakoo." I ate but managed to keep the drinks away. One of the guys was (or still is) in the Air Force (Ivorian AF? Dunno). Anyway, he spent a year in Texas & speaks English. He heard there was an American here so he had to spend some time with me to tell me everything he knows about the states & Cincinnati, Texas :). I just smiled & said it's beautiful there, isn't it? He's nice but he talks a lot. And Kwame (Kwame #1) is acting funny again. Since this morning, he's always asking me where I'm going & he never has before. Then he kept asking me if I wanted to walk around with him, just wander & say hi to people. I can't really say no because I don't have anything else to do. And he knows that. So, when we came back, he threw some food at me. And it's rude not to eat it at all, especially to just get up & leave. So, fine. I spent the rest of the AM with him. So, then I bolted while I could & went home. I hung out there for an hour then it was time for class. Towards the end of class, Kwame comes into my class & the first thing he says to me is "where's Koffi?" He had just come from his class. Then I went to the garden after class with Koffi & another guy, after telling Kwame that I was going to Kwame #2's house for dinner. He got all pissy when I told him that too. Whatever. So, I got back ~6:00 from the garden & passed by Kwame's house & said I'm going to bathe. I'll be back. Kwame wasn't there when I came back but he saw Koffi at this other guy's house & the first thing he asked was "where's Niki?" I'm glad it's not my imagination, at least. But I don't know what to do about it. I talked to Koffi about it tonight, which helped. But that's an uncomfortable subject to bring up with Kwame, especially when I'm not that awesome in French. Plus, what am I going to say to this grown, "mature", man? Excuse me, Kwame. I was just wandering why you're being a jealous baby. So, all I can do is just keep smiling & spend time with everyone. I'm eating dinner at Kwame #2's tomorrow again. Can't wait to tell Kwame #1 :). On a brighter note I have a tumor on my leg. Something bit me & now I've got this huge, painful, itchy knot on the outside of my leg (between my ankle & shin). They tried telling me cutakoo would cure it. I think they were serious. This was after they had a 30 minute discussion on how giving your kids honey will make them smarter. You must have fed me a lot of honey. Oh yeah. I planted the herbs today in the garden (chives, rosemary, parsley) & I planted the flowers at the house. I just hope the moutons don't eat them. I can't wait to see if they come up. I wanted to just scatter them like you do, Mom. But Kwame insisted on putting them all together in batches with the same flower. Boring! I mixed some behind his back :). I'm so sneaky. I'll take a picture for you when they bloom. I had a fresh coconut the other day. It was really good. It's so much better than that dried, sugary junk. And the juice inside is like water, not milk. Who's the genius who put coconut milk in a can -& it's white, isn't it? Maybe not. It tastes like very weakly sweetened water. I can't wait to show you all these things when you come. Today, this guy in my English class said he was going to speak English to you when you come. I thought that was neat. I didn't say anything before he said that. He is so motivated to learn English. He's a little older than the others (he's probably late 20's, early 30's). His name is Kouakou (kwaku) - Kwame is actually spelled Kouame. Anyway, class was really fun today. And they are so interesting to watch. I'm gonna head to bed right now though. I miss you :). Good morning! It's 6:30 & I decided not to run so I can work out with my spiffy weights! I forgot to tell you yesterday Koffi asked me if we could make it rain in America. I said yeah, kinda. We have lots of ways to water fields & such. He said no. One of his teachers in high school told him we can make rain fall from the sky. I said whoever can do that will be rich. He said "why"? Everything is so different. Last night, for example, I'm getting to the point where I can understand most of what they're saying. I understand the word - but I don't know what they mean by what they're saying. Everyone's laughing & I'm thinking that wasn't even remotely funny. Oh well. At least I can laugh at myself. That way we all get to :). Hey. Mom, how are the blueberries & of course, your pie :)? I'm off to "pump some cement" :). ~~~ The first thing Kouame asked me this AM was what time I got home last night. Then he asked me who all was there. Then did I go home by myself. I said no, someone walked me home. He said who? Koffi? I just told him Koffi wasn't there. And tonight, I passed by to say goodnight & he got all pissy because I didn't tell him goodbye before I left for dinner. I guess I can understand that. I did go to the complete other side of the village. I'll see how he is tomorrow AM. We're running for the first time in a while together. Maybe he's got PMS (pissy man syndrome :)). Anyway, I'm off to bed. I'll see you tomorrow. I love you. WOW. It's August already. I'll probably say that 100 more times before I come home. Time is just going by so fast. I can't believe it. I found out you can get manioc in the States. I think it's called cassaug?? Anyway, I'm addicted to this attieke so I'm going to learn how to make it before I leave. It's really good for you too manioc (starch), cube maggi (salt), palm oil (really bad fat :)). I can't wait 'til you finally try it. Kwame didn't run this AM. But he came by after I ran to tell me he was going to the fields. I'll see him tonight for dinner again. I hope he's not in his mood. I can't wait 'til you come. It's going to be so fun. Does Eric have his passport yet? And his shots? I forgot about the shots. There's no way he's coming now. You know he loves me if he's willing to get that many shots! Just to see his stinkin' sister :). I wish you could come this time of year. It's a lot cooler. The mornings are really nice. I did my first sensibilization today. I was eating with Kwame #2 & his friends that were in town. And they asked me if I wanted some water. So, I asked if it was pump water. It was - which was good. But they asked me why I don't drink Comoe water. Everyone thinks if you're Ivorian, you can drink funky water & not get sick. There may be some truth to becoming accustomed to drinking it & you build up some immunity. But pump water is still better. So, they asked me what I do if the pump breaks. They were surprised that all it takes is to boil your water or use a little bleach. But they'll still drink that nasty water. There's only so much I can do. It's not going to be easy changing years of traditions & behaviors. It makes me tired just thinking about it. I think I'll go take a nap :). See ya in a bit. ~~~ Tonight, I realized one of the difficult things for me here - hanging out with the girls. I couldn't do it at home. I really have a hard time here. And on top of that, they're all 16 or 17 & younger. So, they're all acting "silly" & running around. It's not that I'm too good for them. That's just not fun for me. It's not fun in English & with 16 year olds that I know. Put me in another culture with another language just stick a pencil in my eye. It was amusing the first 30 times. Now it makes me crazy. For some reason, I can handle the 16 & 17 year old guys better. Maybe it's because they don't have the shrill laugh & scream. I feel bad saying this, but that's just who I am. Any female my age has 5 kids by now. I have a lot in common with them. I don't EVER want 5 kids. And they've got them at 25. It's gonna suck when Koffi leaves. He's my saving grace here. And there have been others home from school because of vacation. So, come the end of Sept, I'm gonna have to find someone to hang out with. That'll be the tough time that all the PCVs spoke of. Mine will just be delayed. I wish I could just hang out by myself. But I guess that defeats the purpose of me being here, huh?! I'm finding out that I'm older than a lot of these women. I thought they were at least 30. But Koffi told me they're younger than me. Not all of them, but most of them. They're either real old or younger than me (with a truckload of kids). Badoo's Mom - she's super old (I think I told you about her before she's probably pushing 137 at least) - she beat the snot out of this kid today. He told her she had saggy boobs or something :). But seriously, she could kick my butt. She's got arms that women in America would kill for. I'm beat. I think I'm going to bed. I miss you. Goodnight. Good morning! It's 6:15 & I wanted to say hi before I lifted my cement cans :). I meant to tell you yesterday that the squash is really coming up (but the bugs have eaten a lot). The cucumbers and zucchini are coming along too. And the green beans just started to show up! They are so cute & tiny! I've never seen them before still on the plant. And the sunflower seeds I planted the other day have already sprouted. It's only been 2 or 3 days. When I asked if you'd send sunflower seeds on the last page, I meant the kind you eat. Kouame told me there's a big fete in Kokpin on Sat & Sun. It's a village ~16k from Ganse. They're "installing" a king - except it's a woman. They said that's normal, if there's no guys in the family to take the place. Apparently, the whole village goes. It should be pretty interesting. OK. I'm gone. I'll be back later. ~~~ OK. So it turns out not many people are going to Kokpin. Maybe Kouame said that just so I'd agree to go. Oh, well, it should be interesting. I need to check out that village anyway. I'm leaving this letter here while I go to Nassian. I'm mailing film so I'm going to wait 'til I go to Bondoukou next week. The guy in Nassian doesn't have a scale. And he's an idiot too. So, I try to minimize my mailing from there. So, I'll see you later, whenever I get a chance to write again. I can't wait to talk to you. AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHGGG! I need a beer. I got back from Nassian this afternoon. I went straight to the house then straight to the school for English class. After class, I went home, bathed & went to Badoo's where this obnoxious ego maniac was waiting for me. Let's back up Last night, I couldn't sleep. I finally got out of bed ~3 & read until 4:30. There are these *!?@&* crickets here. You would not believe how loud they are. Right now, I'm close to torching the place just so I can sleep. They, of course, only come out at night when I'm trying to sleep. This is why I can't have kids. I'm so tired right now & these *!?@&*s won't shut their traps. I SEARCH for them to kill every last one of them OK. Fine. The marche was good & I saw Adja-Ibiro (black Adja) there. She's my favorite. I can't wait 'til you meet her. OK. Back to Ego Maniac. He was looking for me during class but thank God, I was occupied. Well, he found me as I collapsed at Badoo's & just starts running his mouth. A lot of people think that just because I'm American, I'm all high & mighty & am impressed with the "big city". They think "oh, gosh, you must HATE this village life." So, he's just rambling on about himself & Abidjan & what he does & who he knows & where he's been, blah, blah, blah, blah, puke. So, with the typical Ivorian way, they're blasting the radio while trying to carry on a conversation. I hate that, when I can understand them AND care what they're talking about. So this guy asks me if I understand the lyrics to the song. I say no. And he says he's singing about a guy that talks too much. It was the first time I laughed all day. And he just thought I thought he was funny. If I had to deal with people like that on a daily basis, I would ET. I'm not kidding. He was so arrogant I wanted to punch him. And if he touched me one more time, I would have. I can't stand it when people touch me when I'm talking to them. No. Just people I don't like, like him. So, now I'm ready to pass out. But these *?!@?* crickets have already started the show for tonight. Kwame is guilting me into going on a 3 day excursion. Fun. Fun. It's my own fault for letting him guilt me. I'm so tired. I'm never having kids. Have I mentioned that before?! OK. Now that that's out ot my system. I got some awesome mail - tuna fish, blueberry muffins & dried fruit from Maw Maw (brilliant idea on the tuna!) - pineapple & soy nuts from Grandma (some things are just not meant to be shared :)). The M&Ms were perfect, Mom. Just enough to taste but not make myself sick on :). And the jelly beans too. You guys look great in the pictures. Oh, yeah. Maw Maw asked me a bunch of questions in her letter one was "what's a Fat Tire?" :). I got a ton of mixed nuts & trail mix stuff from Jo Martin. She is so awsome. Oh, thanks for the seeds. I think I'm gong to plant them tomorrow. You know, I think it's days like this that make it difficult to be here. I have bad days at home, yeah, but I can at least vent to someone. I could talk to Koffi if I could SPEAK FRENCH! I just want to VENT & tell him how frustrated I am & why. But, 1. I can't say it right and 2. Even if I could, he may not really even understand because of the cultural difference. I told Kwame about dude talking too much & how he was telling me what the singer was singing about about the guy talking too much. He didn't get it. Irony doesn't exist here. And that's probably just for starters. Whatever. Tomorrow, I won't care anymore. Hey, you know my little pillow that's the same material as my shower curtain? You think you could bring that with you when you come. A lot of time I want a pillow but mine is too big for small trips. I guess I'll attempt to sleep now. I can't wait 'til your get here. I need you to see all I'm talking about. I miss you so much tonight. I love you. I had a good start to my morning with a visit from Mr. Ego. He didn't stay long so that was good. I ran, did my laundry & put a new lock on my door and it's only 9:30. I say "new" lock, as if there was one on there before. Last night, Koffi, Billy, & John came over - they are Koffi's friends. They live here. But I just met them a few weeks ago when they came home for summer vacation. I like them a lot. You'll see them in a picture. Side note - these soy nuts & dried pineapple rock. I love them! OK. Last night was just what I needed. The 3 of them came over to hang out. And we had a really good time. It's so easy to hang out with them. And we always have a good time. Last night, though, I think is the hardest I've laughed since I've been here. First, I gave them some of my snacks to try - in the zip lock bags you just sent (with the little "zipper" thing). It was hilarious watching them try to open it! I didn't even think about it. I just handed them the bags & went about my business. Then, I noticed it got kinda quiet. They had ripped a hole in the side, thinking you couldn't open the top. Koffi has seen the other zip locks, but not this one. He knew there was some trick to it though. So, he handed it off for the others to try, just to laugh at them. Who knew zip lock bags could be so much fun! Then, I have no idea how we got on the subject, we started talking about different expressions for going to the bathroom Koffi said "je vais a la poste" - which means "I'm going to the post office." Then he added "to send a letter". I was so tired. It was the funniest thing I'd ever heard. Then he said they also say "I'm gonna water the flowers". It's funny to see the different expressions, and some are the same. I was showing them my pictures you sent me & Koffi asked where are the pics that Kurt sent me. I said I didn't get anything from him & Koffi said "oooohhh, Niki's fache (mad)". I said "no c'est pas grave" (it's fine). And he said women always say that - "c'est pas grave" when it is "grave" (not good). It was just like at home. These guys egging me on, always giving me a hard time about Kurt. At least it makes me feel at home :). I have to make up some homework for my one students who really wants to learn. Then we're going t6 Kokpin this afternoon for the fete tomorrow. We're going on our bikes, which will be fun. I'm in a much better mood today. I think it may even be fun at Kokpin. I just needed to decompress last night, and run off some stress this AM. So, I guess I'll be back in a couple days. I'm taking my camera but not my letters. I'll get to talk to you in a week :)! Have a good weekend. I miss you tons! I'm back! That was a tough 2 nights. I don't really like "traveling" here when I don't have control. I don't mind a lot of things, but there are two things that stress me out not knowing if I have a bathroom and not having control over my food. We ate breakfast around 8 and then dinner around 8:30 that night. I may be a wimp, but I can't do that. But it's not like I can just go grab something in a drive-thru somewhere. The fete was OK nothing too spectacular. My favorite part is just seeing all the old women in all their mismatched clothes :). You'll see. It's awesome. Very colorful! I saw them slaughter & clean a big fatty cow. That was cool. His heart was as big as my head. One thing I realized at this fete, though, was that this place is extremely rich in culture. Pretty cool, right? Yeah, but a big fat pain in my rear. I told Kouame that I wanted to leave early because I had a lot of stuff to do. He said he'd be at the house at 6, we'd say bye to everyone & leave. Fine. He shows up at 7. We literally said goodbye to everyone. We left at 8:30. I was boiling. I was trying so hard not to care. I like being casual. Here, I have to worry about everything "is she going to be mad if I don't go say hi?" or if I said bye last night but not today before I actually left .no good. It's so stupid. Get over it. I hate bullshitting with people just to say, yeah, I spent some time with you. It's very much like being a politician & I suck at pretending like I care. Oh, before I left on Saturday, Billy & Koffi made lunch again this time - squirrel! It was good. I met Koffi's big brother today for the first time, too. He lives in Abidjan. Koffi lived with him when he was in school & is going to live with him again if he gets to go. He's light skinned, so they were calling him my brother instead of Koffi's. The cool thing about being here - the sole bruny & especially American (they notice the skin first :)) - people give you everything. For a day and a half in Kokpin, we'd go around saying hi to everyone & they'd give us food & drink galore. There were a lot of Lobis there. They drink a lot and make a lot of the Choppalo. It's really good. So, we drank Chop yesterday for lunch and on our way out this AM, when we went by to say bye, we had to stay for a couple rounds. They make this stuff here called "baka" (sounds like "back-a"). It's corn flour made into a creamy "soup", but it's kinda sweet & usually eaten in the AM. It's so yummy. And I think it's easy to make too. So I can probably make it when I come back home :). Kouame is still acting like a 13 year old. He knew I wanted to get back to see Koffi's brother, but we left at 8:30 instead of 7. And when we got back, I took a different road (well, path :)) at the last second to go to Koffi's & Kouame said "where are you going?" I told him I wanted to meet Koffi's brother before he left on the bajan. He wasn't happy. There's body language here too. The way he acts, "passively" forcing me to be around him, makes me try harder to do stuff with Koffi, even if I don't want to. You know, I noticed that with Koulango too. I do want to learn it. But I hate it when people won't talk to me in French. They speak to me in Koulango as if I'm fluent, and don't make an effort to slow down or explain. Not everyone, but a lot. It makes me want to not learn it. Just like when I was 2, huh?! :). Trying to make me swim mean old parents :). OK. Time for class. I'll be back in a bit. (Or tomorrow :)). We went to Ganse yesterday (the other Ganse) to get water. While we were there, I saw a baby baboon tied to a tree - like they did with the monkey. He was tiny & so cute. Kwasy told me they killed it's mom to eat. Nice, huh. So now they're keeping this little guy for a pet. But he won't be little for long. He said that he was nice because he's young. And he'll stay nice since he will have always been around people! When I saw him, he was "playing" with the kids. He was pretending to be asleep. He would peek through his hands or under his arm to see if the kids were still there, then put his head down again. It was so cute. I want a baby baboon :). I hate to see pets here. The villagers don't feed them. They're doing well to feed themselves, much less worry about a pet. The dogs are really sad looking. Oh, did I tell you, I tried the squash the other day? It was so good! But only 1 ½ turned out. There were TONS, but the bugs got 'em. That's fine. Now I know what will and won't work. The cucumbers were SO good! They're kinda sweet - better than any cuke from Publix! The green beans look like they will survive the bugs too. So far those 2 work. If it would rain, the corn will work. So far so good on the tomatoes, but I don't know if the bugs will get them like the squash. They haven't started to bloom yet. And we're still waiting on a few peppers, onions & 3 carrots :). We just planted the last 2 packs of green & wax beans & tomatoes you sent. Gardens are so much fun! Can you send more cucumber seeds? They grow pretty fast & are really tasty. Oh yeah, last night I went over to this lady's house - Ama Dungo - and Adja Ibiro was there along with some others. We sat around telling stories in Koulango (they told them, then translated for me :)). It helps me learn it, though. And their stories are so stupid they're hilarious. It's like they're telling stories to the kids, but it's for the adults. The one I thought was the funniest was -- there was this chicken & he wanted to eat the potato. The potato said if you eat me, I'm gonna make your stomach blow up. The chicken said, well, if you make my stomach blow up, I'll just shit you out. So that's what happened. That's it! It was so stupid. But I learned how to say shit in koulango. The necessities, right?! I can't wait for you to meet everyone. I can't wait to show you my favorites! There are some awesome "vieux" (oldies :)). Boy, you've got a lot of typing to do, Dad :). It's because I'm waiting 'til I get to Bondoukou. The English class is going very well. I'm having a lot of fun teaching it. And there are a few who really want to learn and are doing very well. It's hard, though, unless you get a chance to practice speaking it. It's funny (for me) because I'm teaching it, I realize I don't know a lot of the rules, and how things are supposed to be said or spelled. It's really sad (but I DON'T CARE!) It's just that sometimes I say it and it sounds right, but when I stop & think about it, I know it's not. For example I say "I've got to " a LOT but I wouldn't put my life on it that it's correct grammar. Oh well, they'll never know :). I'm gonna (I know 'gonna' is correct) go eat some lunch red beans & rice - just like my Mama makes :)! Bon appetite!! I haven't seen you in a couple days been busy. Village life can get pretty hectic :). Before I forget in class yesterday, I had another brain fart. They love laughing at me. Which is correct .a pilot flys/flies a plane? When I think about it too much, they both look wrong. It was amusing anyway. The green beans in the garden are AWESOME and they grow really well - not a big insect magnet. And we've got tons! I may have asked already, but will you send more cucumber seeds? Those rock & grow really well too. Two nights ago, they had a soiree. Everyone dances 'til the wee hours of the morning. I made it 'til 2:30, then had to be carried back to the house :). Last night, we danced again. It was so much fun! They LOVE to dance. They asked me if you guys would dance when you come. I told them you guys were dancin' fools! I wish we could dance every night. I'm going to Bondoukou today. And I'm supposed to go to Abidjan Mon or Tues. But I may come back here on Tues. When I got back from Kokpin last weekend & I met Koffi's brother, they told me Koffi was accepted to go back to school. That's great news. Fantastic for him. But it sucks for me. All the cool people are leaving to go back ot school. School starts Sept 17. Koffi's probably going to Abidjan & he's leaving the 1st. I'm really bummed. I don't know what I'm going to do with myself now. We have become really good friends and it's not just because I'm here & the pickin's are slim. He is a really good guy & we have so much fun together. So, I think I'm coming back early because he's only here for 3 more weeks. I can go to Abidjan & see all of them. They can show me all the fun places to go. I can't wait for you to meet them. They're all going to be in Abidjan when you come. Well, I'm gonna go walk around a bit. I'll be back before Monday, when I stick this in the mail. I know you don't know which one Koffi is, so can you just send all the pictures? Everyone here would love them. If not, you could bring them with you. Be back in a bit! I just talked to you last night, Dad again this AM & Eric this afternoon.
I'm set for another few weeks :). It's hard to come in for only a couple
days because there's not time to talk to everyone. I'm really excited
about getting back to the village. I got to talk to April & she said
she saw you guys in Atlanta. She is so awesome. I miss her so much. She
said she saw Jennifer Nettles too
but who's the one with the autographed
8 x 10 glossy, right, Dad?! I'm sending one roll in this package and another
roll separate. I can't wait to see them
and to give them to everyone.
I'll write again in a few
have fun and I can't wait to see you! |