Letter #24
"…a mouse in my house…"
Aug 14 - Sep 3, 2001

Aug 14

Hey Mom & Dad!
Just wanted to say hi real fast. We're dancing again tonight until… So, I'm going to be useless tomorrow. I haven't had a decent night's sleep in over a week. I always think going to Bondoukou will let me rest, but it doesn't. So, have a good one and I'll be back sometime .

Aug 22

I haven't been here for a while. I was really good about writing a little each day…but things come up and I didn't have time & before I know it, it's more than a week! All kinds of things have been going on. First of all… about a week ago, someone in the village died. I was at Koumae's, hanging out with everyone, and all of a sudden you hear all these people wailing - I don't know how else to describe it - it's not really crying. Anyway, it's a very distinct sound. When you hear it, you know someone in the village has just died. It happened again a few days ago. Only this time, it was in the other Ganse. I could hear them all the way over here. But the man who died about a week ago was the uncle of Jean & Billy - two friends of Koffi's who were going to school in Abidjan. Turns out, that's who all three live with during school. But Abidjan is expensive. So now they don't know where they can go. For now, it looks like Koffi will go to Bondoukou, and Jean may go there too. I don't know where Billy is going. But it was their uncle who also paid for tuition. It is really expensive for them - 100,000 CFA per year. So at ~750CFA/$1 - that's just over $100! It's amazing how valuable our currency is here. That will be nice if they all go to Bondoukou. Then I can see them more often. We'll see. The green beans in the garden are really good. I steamed them & let a bunch of people try them…like eat them at "chez moi" (my house). Nobody liked them! It was so funny watching them taste them too, trying not to be too rude. There are tons of wax beans. These are growing like a weed. They aren't ready yet, but will be soon. Something keeps eating the corn. Koffi said either a monkey or parrot. Random - Koffi had a book for school that he was reading the other day. It was Charley & the Chocolate Factory! Who knew?! The English class is going pretty well so far. It is so hard to teach, but I have 2 students and they are very patient. That book you sent me is awesome. It helps so much. FYI - I'm sitting in the corner of the room (kitchen/den) with everything off the floor, so I can see everything. There's a mouse under my barrique and I'm not letting him out alive. He's already eaten "on the house", fresh from the trap, but lived to tell about it. I'm hoping someone will stop by on their way to the fields & help me. That little booger is fast. When I went to Kokpin with Kouame a week or so ago, for the fete for the new queen, I met the nurse there. He's the nurse for 8 villages in this area, Ganse included. It will be really nice to work with him because he does a lot of the same work I want to do - like sensibilizations on water sanitation (like STOP DRINKING RIVER WATER!, sex ed, latrine importance…). He came here the other day to talk to the village about cholera because there have been a few cases near us and in Burkina (just up the river). I talked to Kouame after the meeting and I think it'll be helpful having Kouame here. He is pretty motivated about having a pump that works. He wants to do sex ed for the girls and get a latrine project going. Who knows what will actually happen, but at least he knows they are all important. (That's a start, right?!) The problem is the nurse. (His name is Nana. Yeah…like a Grandmother). He's hitting on me hard core. He thinks since I'm American, I like his "money". I've told him I have a boyfriend. I even told him I have one here. Most of the time, I tell them I'm married. But I think he'd find out, especially if I'm gonna be working with him a lot. So, now whenever I have to see him, Koffi & Jean & Billy all make fun of me and give me a hard time. They at least helped me figure out what to say to him to tell him to back off. ----HOLD ON--- Lambert just came by - he's a young "jeune" here (young guy). He was on his way to the fields so I recruited him to help me. He's really nice. And we killed the little guy! I think there will be another one tomorrow, though. OK. {…she's referring to the mouse, not the nurse who is hitting on her…ed} Gonna go see if we have any $ for our pump. Be back in a bit. ~~~ Well, there's no $ for the pump right now. They have all these "reunions" (meetings) & talk a big game, but never do anything. I can't make them. I was going to go to Bouake to buy the piece for the pump tomorrow. But now, I'm going to Nassian for the marche. Josh & Rachel aren't there, though, so I'm not sending this 'til I go to Bondoukou. I can't get my mail either. Wow, I should have a nice little stash here in a couple weeks. The bugs are going to town on the garden. I haven't been able to find a spray bottle. They're all sold out in Bondoukou. I think Kouame is moving in soon. His room is all ready. He just has to move his stuff. He said he wanted to have a dance to celebrate, so he said he needed to talk to Koffi about doing the music. I said "which Koffi?" (since there are only about 47). He said "ton Koffi". That means "your" Koffi. Since the day I got here, everyone refers to me as Koffi's wife or Koffi's bruny. If someone sees me without him, their first question is "where's Koffi?" And they always ask him the same thing. Sometimes, I feel like maybe it's a bad idea to hang around the same people - for me specifically. But then I don't care because the people naturally stick with certain people. People here do that too. It is my "job" here, but it's also my life. One thing this place has done for me is give me more confidence. I meant with meeting new people but especially about not caring what other people think. I didn't really care at home too much, but here I'm really good at it . For example, I was hanging out with these women with their kids - none of them speak French. I was trying so hard to speak Koulango but it is hard. Well, there was this other man there that spoke a little French, and all he'd do was dog me for not speaking Koulango. I said "I don't understand it yet". And he told me that it wasn't good that I speak French, that I need to understand Koulango. I told the snaggled tooth buzzard to bite my ass. But I smiled when I said it . Kinda like talking to a dog…it's all in the tone of voice. I'm reading Ya-Ya Sisterhood right now and I really like it. It's really funny in some parts. I start laughing & my friends will say what's so funny. But there's NO WAY to explain. There are a lot of French words in it. I saw one in particular - ménage et trios. I've always heard that but could never ask anybody what it means in French. I know what it means in America. I asked the guys & they didn't know. Oh,, speaking of which - the nurse, Nana, asked me if I knew who this actress was he asked me over lunch with Kouamé & this other guy. I said no, what movie was she in…he said a porno. He asked me so matter of factly as if I asked you if you knew who Julia Roberts was. So, after he inquired about 3 or 4 more actors, I told him pornos weren't really my thing. That's when he told me how much he loved watching them. Good grief! Am I having this conversation?! He was so serious too. There are some things I really just never get used to… That's one of them for sure. Since I've been here, my cooking has changed a lot. It's still AWESOME but it's a lot different. Today, I made caramel corn again. Who knew that was so easy. And making popcorn on the stove is fun, too - more fun than microwave. Today for lunch, I made rice. I boiled water with a small can of tomato paste, 2 cube magi (like bouillon), lots of piment and 2 onions. It was scrumptious. Badoo & Fatimata ate with me. After they inhaled it all, Badoo told me the rice wasn't done and next time she'll show me how to do it right. Bite me. If you don't like it, don't eat. I've gotten a bit of an attitude since I've been here. Oh well,. So, tomorrow I'm going to Nassian for the marche. I'm gonna try to get to the post office, but I'm thinking it won't happen. For now, I think I'll go read then hit the sack. I miss you & can't wait to talk to you. Good night, my favorite parents .


Aug 25

It's back to Africa hot today. It's been nice recently, but not today. I'm making my cinnamon apple muffins you sent me. I waited 'til everyone left because I don't want to share . Koffi's still here, but he's sick. I felt sorry for him. The mac-n-cheese powder packet is a FABULOUS idea! Send more! the hospital stuff is a good idea too - thermometers & the like, for the village. I can talk to you about that. I got TONS of mail yesterday too. It was awesome. I wanted to go to the post office but the bike was messed up. There's a moped but I don't know how to start it. I saw Bamba on my way to the market so he told me he'd take me on the moped. He was/is Rebecca's boyfriend. (She worked for WWF.) It ended up being a crazy morning. I saw the post office man at the marche & he told me the box was full, that I needed to come by. Well, when Bamba & I finally tried, the moped was messed up. Long story short, we raced around like mad trying to get it fixed & get to the post office & back before the bajan arrived. I got to drive it too ! He's really nice & he's good friend of the PCVs. I love the letters! Thanks for the tea & equal, love the bra & all the other stuff too. Got more dried pineapple (yummy!) from Grandma & more packets of shampoo & conditioner from Maw Maw (perfect for traveling). Do you think when you come you can bring a bunch of those free black picture albums from Wal-Mart? The albums here are only for small pictures. Oh yeah - can you send the following pix from July 30 - #5, #22; July 15 - #0, #10, #14, #15, #18, #22. Thanks ! Reading your letters, Mom, sounds like you've got a "Heather" on your hands . Keep telling me what's going on. I hate missing you in action. I don't know if I taught Jonah Ivey swim lessons or not. That is so sad. Sounds like there's a ton of tennis going on, as usual. I'm really gonna suck when I come back. I went to someone's field this morning - peanut field. It was really interesting. He gave me a bunch to take home. Here, I boil them. It uses less of my gas. For now, I think I'll take a nap, then head to the garden to water it…still not much rain. Miss you guys tons & I can't wait to see you. Random - the equal tabs are PERFECT.


Aug 27

Well, we finally made it to Wekele ('wickalee") today. It was definitely interesting. It's a small village ~5k behind Ganse. I went with Kouame & Kouassi. They gave me some pig meat while I was there too. It was really good. The thing about Wekele is there are a lot of Lobis. They're the ones who make the chopalo (African beer). There are only 2 places where you can be trashed at 9:45 in the morning…drinking chop with the Lobis or an SEC football game. Everyone wants to be nice to the guests, so they keep bringing it on. They really don't like when you tell them no, either. So, the bike ride home was little tougher . Now, I'm relaxing at the house. I just got back from my English class. One thing just to give you an idea of the difficulty of learning a language… Today, we covered the verb "to get". Pretty simple, right? Today, I taught them eleven meanings. And that's not even all of them. There are 11 different verbs for "to get". Talk about confusing. I had to bail on them early today. I think the chop is still with me. I may have said this already, but Maw Maw sent me some "Miracle Grow". I can't wait to try it on my garden. I'm in the process of making some "biscuits". They're actually pretty good. just wish I had some jelly or sausage . You know what I was craving the other day?…sausage balls J..think you could bring some…? I'm gonna go read some. Be back later .

Aug 28

Do ducks have a penis? There was something closely resembling the small intestines that hung down in the penis region after he mounted the other duck. But I've never seen it before. You learn something new everyday. I got swarmed by ants again today. Badoo & I went to Ganse to get water and somewhere between here & there I stood in the middle of them…but didn't see them. I've got a cold or something right now. I can't breathe to save my life. I took some antihistamine hoping it'll let me sleep. All I want is a bottle of Nyquil . I'm gonna go read myself to sleep. Miss you. Can't wait to talk to you.

Aug 29

I'm so glad you sent me those gloves. I worked in Adja's rice field today. I had no idea how that worked. We basically tilled up the ground by hand. I'll show it to you when you come. It's not too far and the walk is really pretty. I love the piment here - it's in everything - but it does a job on my heartburn. I'm gonna have to get more Pepcid here soon. I may have said this already - the moon here is really something. I took it for granted in the States…because I already had light. Here, they call it free electricity. You can actually walk around without a flashlight or lamp. I finished reading Ya-Ya Sisterhood…it really made me get excited about seeing you. I started crying reading that book just thinking about you guys, and how lucky I am. I've got some pretty cool parents. I just have one problem - I have this fear, and I've had the same dream a few times, that something is going to happen to you while I'm over here. It's so real sometimes, too. I haven't had to deal with anything my first 25 years. I feel like somebody's waiting to drop a bomb on me…like this is going to be my "cross" to bear. So can you at least wait 'til I get home? Thanks . By the way, don't be offended when people over here tell you you're "vieux" and "en form" (I think I spelled those wrong) - basically you're not 16 anymore and "healthy" as Coach Findley used to say. When they look at my pictures, they wonder if you fed me. Keep in mind, these people are small over here. You'll see what I mean. OK. I'm outta here. Gotta write to April then it's sleep time. I love you & think about you all the time.

Aug 30

There's a reason there aren't many white people here…the sun! My back is fried from yesterday working in the fields. If I put sunscreen on, it sweats off in 7 seconds. Today, Dad, I realized another thing I do like you…put one big roll in each pant leg when I'm walking around the house so my jeans don't drag the ground . Our legs aren't too short, the ground is too tall. I just got back from the garden. I cut sticks all morning to stake my green beans. Well, this random came to check out my garden and while I was cutting the sticks, he literally took the machete out of my hand and said - here, let me do it. I said, "No, really, I can do it. Thanks anyway." He wouldn't give me my machete. I was so mad. They act like I'm helpless. It was obvious I could do it. Half the garden was already staked. I told him I only needed 3 more. So he cut them, then left. The thing here - if you don't do things the way they do, it's wrong. Often, I'll cook something and Badoo will say "I'll show you how to make it right next time." Or tell me I put too many onions in it. Hello. I made it for me and I like it that way. You don't like it? Don't eat it! I'm gonna make a good Mom, aren't I?! Those little Equal Tablets are perfect. I'm almost finished with them. I use them in my tea & oatmeal. Gotta go grade some homework. I'm a tough teacher . ~~~ Well, this afternoon was interesting to say the least. I played soccer with all the girls. Basically, it's a bunch of 5 year olds playing in 15 year old bodies. They push, kick, pull, bite, rip clothes. I was afraid of them. We had a good time though. And I took a few pictures too. I think we're playing again tomorrow…unless, please God, it rains . The garden looks good and the wax beans are, as Koffi puts it, "bien joli". That means they're pretty. I told him it didn't matter what they looked like. You can't eat "pretty". But I think they're going to turn out well. One thing that is very discouraging for me, and I'm pretty sure will be until I leave, is the language. Most of the time I love not having to worry about making conversation because they know I don't know the language. But times like today, it's like a punch in the face reminder that I'll never really belong. We were playing cards like normal, and also like normal, everyone is speaking Koulango. So, I never understand. Well, they get to laughing, which is good and all, but they really start laughing pee-in-your-pants laughing…and I'm the only one not laughing. I want to laugh too. But I don't understand them. It's like trying to pretend like you understood a joke they just told - only I can't pretend. They know I don't understand Koulango. Then they have to stop and translate for me, which is probably worse than explaining a joke. It can be very disheartening. But then I remind myself…I don't care. I'll find my own stuff to laugh at . I have to tell myself I don't have to "fit in". I will be accepted in their own way. And even though I can't speak their language, I'm pretty sure they're glad I'm here anyway. I'm really trying to learn their language but it is hard. For example, last night they got a good laugh in because I couldn't distinguish "preco" from "gbreco" (yes. That's "gb" - don't ask). It's so painfully clear how they sound different. Clear as *!?@* mud. Speaking of which, today's class was a killer. Some of this stuff is HARD to explain. Today, I was trying to explain the difference between "I had dinner" and "I was having dinner." They are 2 different tenses but nearly impossible to explain. Everyone was frustrated. Tomorrow is a new day. People ask about you guys all the time. And when I meet someone new, they always tell them - her parents & big brother are coming in January. They're all so excited to have FOUR brunies roaming the village. Well, it's about my bedtime (8:40, Dad. Sad, huh?) Want to say hi to April first then it's dreamland. I miss you guys so much and am already counting the days 'til you get here. Good night!

Sept 2

Well, I'm here in Bondoukou with Sky, Rachel, Josh, Michelle and a bunch of others…doing a whole lot of nothing. I didn't tell you before I left, they had a little drama in the village. Someone in the village had 2 A/C units (yeah. You heard me right.) that were left over from the hotel. They were just sitting in the boxes. Maybe they were going to sell them - who knows. Anyway, the guy who has them, he's Muslim. Muslims pray 6x a day - the first being 5 AM. Well, when everyone left the house to pray, someone stole the A/C units. The village went crazy. Long story short (because it's too hard to explain)…they found 2 people who they think did it & they are people who work on the bac (the ferry). I was really surprised at one of them, but I don't know the other. So, that afternoon, the village surrounded them at the Chef's house. The Chef was their protector. I asked what happens now. And they said they're gonna beat the crap out of them. They were serious. It was nuts. So they "discussed" what they were gonna do with them. They decided to call the gendarmes. YIKES. When they had the voleurs (thieves) at the Chef's house, someone came running to my house to tell me to bring my camera. I felt like the headline news. I couldn't do it. I gave my camera to someone else to take the picture. So I'm heading to Abidjan Tuesday I think…then to Monga to see the family . Then back to the village. We have an IST in Daloa the 13th of Sept. That'll be fun to see everyone again.

Sept 3

It was so awesome talking ot you guys last night. Sounded like you were having a good time in Utah. Today is pretty lazy. I had 2 tank tops made that turned out really cute. I'm heading to Abidjan tomorrow. So, I have to get myself psyched. I don't like that place. It's too crowded. After being in the village it's complete sensory overload. I'm sending one roll of film. (Sorry, no captions…) I miss you guys so much and can't wait to see you!