Sept 8th

Hey Mom & Dad!
I'm back in the village after my Bondoukou/Abidjan trip. I'm leaving again Thurs for Daloa. Well, today was definitely worth noting. And, Eric, before you open your mouth - yes, my sensor did go off but decided this is for me to look back on to, so I decided to write it… This morning, I woke up & walked around the village just saying hi to people. I hung out at Michel's first - he works on the ferry…he's one of my good friends here. He has a maquis at his house so I go hang out with him & his family a lot. Today, there were 2 guys there I didn't know. One was probably my age or a little younger and was 3 sheets to the wind at 10AM. He could barely talk to me. He gave me a bad feeling. He asked me where I live (they all do!) & I pointed toward the river - which is opposite. Then I decided to leave because I didn't like this guy. So I walked around a little more & saw Koffi. I asked him if he knew this guy at Michel's & he said no. So I went to Ama-Dungo's until ~ 11:30 then headed to the house to fix some lunch. I found Kouame before I went & asked him if he knew that dude. I told him I had a bad feeling about him & that I thought he might follow me to the house. So, he said he'd come with me. Right then, we saw him with Michel on the path from my house. Michel was calling to Kouame to come over where they were. Then we all walked to the house. When I could see the house, I could see the netting on my window was messed up. I immediately told Kouame someone's been in my house. Then it hit me it was the jackass with Michel. I ran inside to see what happened. He cleared my shelves, emptied my trunk, went through my bucket of food and my bags. I freaked when I saw the trunk because that's where I keep my short wave and the MP3 player. Then I checked all my money locations. My money was gone from my wallet, but that was all he found. The short wave & MP3 were gone and who knows what else. But those were the first things I thought of. I was really upset when I saw the MP3 was gone. Michel & Kouame were outside with JA (jackass). Michel kept saying "Niki, doucement, doucement" which basically means calm down. I had already said my money was gone but then I started crying when I told them the MP3 was gone. They finally understood in my terrible crying French "my brother gave it to me. I have to find it." They asked me 3 times what it was and all I could say "my brother gave it to me, my brother gave it to me." So Kouame told him to cough it up and he fiddled in his pocket and pulled out 1000CFA. Kouame was livid. I think he was madder than I was. JA wouldn't budge. And he was still trashed. So Kouame started wailing on him. Next thing I know, Michel is coming towards us with his shotgun. Good Lord, people. So here's Kouame beating the snot out of this guy…and now Michel with a shotgun. Finally, we start heading toward the village and stop along the path. By this time, there's a crowd gathered. And now there are about 5 people with tree branches basically whipping him where ever. They rip his shirt off, continue whipping, punching, slapping, kicking - until finally he goes into the brush & emerges with a plastic bag with my things. He had taken the 2 radios, 2 bottles of boric acid and the headlamp Bobby gave me. Then they beat him some more to make him cough up the money. I couldn't watch. I was shaking. They kept asking me how much he took. Well, I'm like you, Mom, I had no idea. I just shove the money in there. I hadn't counted it. I knew there was at least 5000, but I was pretty sure there was more. But I didn't want to say 8000CFA if he only took 5000CFA because they would believe me & beat him to death until he gave me as much as I said. So I told them I thought it was at least 5000cfa, maybe more, but I didn't know for sure. They beat 13,000cfa out of him. I think some of that was his…but that's for my trouble . After I got everything back, they had tied his hands behind his back and were walking him around the village for everyone to see. Then they tied him to a stump in the middle of the village waiting for the Chef to come back from the fields. I took a picture of him tied to the stump. OK. So I know this probably scares you to death, but I can honestly say I'm not afraid to be here. I'm in my house alone right now. It's 8:30 and it's been dark for over an hour. He didn't live here. And people are aware of strangers. He had asked Michel where I lived & he pointed toward the river too. Then he asked a petit where I lived and they took him to my house. Michel's wife sent one of her kids to my house & when he knocked on my door, JA got spooked & left through the window. So the kid ran back & got his Dad. It was really comforting to watch the village come to my rescue. I mean the whole village. And they were MAD. You don't mess with our bruny. They asked me what I wanted to do with him now - kinda like pressing charges. I told them as long as he leaves I'm fine, that I don't really know how to handle something like this. They all wanted to send him to the gendarmes. I have so much confidence in the people here. They are my family and they look out for me. It felt so good to have everyone making sure everything was ok. And it was genuine concern, not just getting caught up in the commotion. I thought maybe I shouldn't tell you guys. But honestly, now I feel safer than I did before. Because now I see how much they protect me. I love this place. I didn't know what Africans would be like in the village. I didn't think they would be a bunch of Neanderthals but I never thought of them as being just like us. I know that's stupid. They are people just like you & me. They have friends and family. They laugh and cry at the same things we do. The difference is 99% of the people here want me to belong. They watch out for me and protect me. There are JAs everywhere. But (& this is cheesy) they really just want to be happy. And for the most part, they are. They'd give you their last bite of food and want to do it. Not just for me because I'm the American, for everyone. I wish Americans could be more like that. I love America. But the Ivorians have amazing hospitality. I love it here, Mom & Dad. I wake up in the morning and go to bed at night thinking about Ganse, my life. I don't think to myself anymore 'how long 'til I get to go home.' I never wanted to go home. I just missed it a lot more before. Now I think about - I can't wait to show you guys my home. I can't wait to show this place off and introduce you to my new family. They're going to love you. I'm off to bed now. Goodnight & sweet dreams . And don't worry about me… I've got 100 Moms & Dads over here. You'll see.

Sept 9

Kouame can't make a fist this morning. His knuckles are swollen from punching JA so much. Oh yeah, after he gave me back all my stuff, someone found some pills on him. They were my malaria pills. All of them. I got them back so it's ok now. I tried the corn last night form the garden. It was yummy…not quite as good as Grandma's, but it's better than the corn here. And today, I'm fixing rice with the wax beans. I thought of two other things to add to my wish list - cinnamon & Tazo Chai tea. If you send the tea, get the "Tazo" brand. The brand looks like "tazÅ" - that's the best kind. Oh yeah, the voleur (thief) yesterday - he ate one of my Clif bars. You can take my money, but you better not touch my Clif bars! He kindly left me two. Kouame is fixing my window today. Then it's classtime. Then I'm playing soccer with the jeune filles ('young girls') this afternoon. I know I keep saying this, but I can not wait 'til you guys come. But for now, I'm going to go fix some lunch. Be back later . OK. I've discovered another tough part of being here. People ask me for stuff all the time. Most of the time it's small stuff…this one woman always asks me for onions, Badoo always asks me for food or soap to do laundry or bleach to do laundry. And if she sees me with sugar or flour, she comes to the house to ask me for some. They know I have it, and it's really not a lot. But it's the principle of it. Are they asking me because they think I'm rich & can buy it for everyone? Or do they do it because they think I won't say no? And with medication…I don't give that to anyone. Well, Koffi hurt his arm the other day & for 5 days was absolutely miserable. Day 4, I finally gave him some Advil and it helped. Well, today he asked me to give some of that to another girl here. I gave it to Koffi because he is a good friend & I know him well. He couldn't understand why I don't want to give her any. I hate that. I feel terrible because it's only Advil. How hard is it for me to give that? But where do I draw the line? I can't give it to everyone & as soon as I give it to one, I'm afraid everyone will ask me. Then they hate me because I say no. Maybe I shouldn't have given it to Koffi. But part of me says he's a good friend & Advil is practically candy. But what does that turn into when I say no. He is kinda putting me on the spot. Try explaining that in French. And he just doesn't see that. I think he's thinking - well, you can give it to just her. Well, when I start giving it all away, what happens when I need it? Now explain that rationale. How do I explain there will be none for me. Well, there's none for them now. Am I better? More deserving? It makes me feel like I think I'm better than them. But that's not it at all. All this makes me second guess their sincerity. Then I feel bad for second guessing them. Of course they like me. I hate feeling defensive like that. But it's hard to figure out the difference between them genuinely wanting to be with me & get to know me and them taking advantage of me. They give me tons, even when they don't have tons. I'm so selfish. I feel so selfish. But I don't want to get taken advantage of. OK. Enough of that. Think I'll go to bed now. I miss you guys.

Sept 11

I was talking to Kouame the other day and he said JA was in prison not too far from here. Don't know what he did to be there. But that doesn't matter. Since that happened, they've started clearing all the brush between my house and the village. So everyone can see my house. I told you they look after me. Also, everyone here tries to speak English. And it was really funny with the JA because they were all calling him "feef man". They can't say words with "th". You probably have to hear it, but it's hilarious. I think I'll be buying the piece for the pump when I go through Bouake on my way to Daloa. They are saving some money because I'm already paying for transport. So keep your fingers crossed that it all actually happens. That'll mean soon I won't have to walk 100 miles for my water. Hey, can you send a couple decks of playing cards? They play cards like mad here and they're really rough on them. That's something you can bring with you too. OK. Gonna go nap before class. It has been really hot lately & my head is about to explode. Be back later. ~~~ Today was really good. I had a good English class. Then I had a meeting with the Association de Jeune - the group for the "young". There are a group of adults who run it - a President, VP, Secretary…& I'm one of 2 treasurers. Today, we discussed laws of the village…like if you don't keep your yard clean, you have to pay 500cfa. I asked what makes people pay. They said they'll go in their homes & take all their clothes. They get their clothes when they pay up. Apparently, that system works well. They asked me what laws I wanted. I said latrines in the village & at the school for the kids. They thought that was a good idea, but it'll take a long time. Hey, I thought of another thing you can bring if you want …remember that French/English book we bought with good useful phrases - "Living Language" French Course paperback…there's a red bar across the top, it's paperback, & a picture of a river on the front right corner. I really want 3 - Koffi, Ossane & Kouakou. The latter 2 are my English students. I wanted to give them each a dictionary, too. I gave Koffi my pocket one because I have one from the PC. I know all this stuff adds up…but add that to my wish list of stuff you can bring if you want. I figured maybe for the next 2 years, your $ to charity can be redirected to Ganse . It's for a good cause too . Oh yeah - I think I'm going to get the piece for our pump when I go to Daloa. That means MAYBE, with the grace of God, we'll have a functioning pump within a month! Well, I'm heading out. I have another meeting and then we're dancing tonight. Miss you & love you! ~~~ The meeting was really good. They discussed with everyone what we talked about earlier. The latrine idea was a hit…but we'll see if it actually happens. Then on our way back to the house, I noticed the manya ants along the path in front of the house. Those are the ones that swarmed me inside the other house. I followed the trail & noticed it was really close to the door. I tried to go to the door. But everywhere I stepped, there were ants. I've never seen so many ants in my life. And I had just left the house an hour before & there was nothing. Well, they had started to go in my part of the house. The way you get rid of these guys is burn them out. Well, thank goodness I saved all my packages that people send me. I burned every one of them. There were at least 20, maybe more. So I frantically lit the envelopes & handed them off to the guys outside. They're gone for now. I have this fear they'll come back while I'm sleeping & swarm me in bed. I hope you get a chance to see these guys in action. It's really an amazing sight. Now, it's bedtime. So. I'll see you in the morning. Sweet dreams.

Sept 12

I don't believe how evil people in this world are. I don't usually listen to my short wave unless I know something is going on. This morning, I was at Ama-Dungo's when Kouakou & Ossane (my students) came looking for me to see if I heard. I had no idea. I can not believe it. People think America is the promised land. All your problems will be solved there. They don't see that shit like this happens. And the kids who take guns to school. I know it wasn't Americans who did this, but it still makes me glad I'm here. What happens now? The Pentagon. Good Lord! How many people were sacrificed? And what their families must be going through. Why do people do that? Now, America will flex their military muscle & "punish" who did this. This scares me to death. I don't know anything about NY. Does Jyll Lottner still live near the Twin Towers? This is so stupid! The people here look at me like why did that happen? What did America do to make them mad? Nobody likes us…except the people in Cote d'Ivoire . How did this happen? How did our security people have no idea? There's nobody here for me to talk to either. I don't know the words for hijack, assassination, terrorist…didn't think I'd need those words. I can't believe it. ~~~ I just saw that horrific scene on TV. How does something like that happen? I think I feel worse about it over here. I don't know why. Maybe because I don't see that here everyday - senseless killings, I mean. It's not on the TV everyday… I guess I've started to care again. I'm listening to it on the radio. Everyone here keeps saying they'll catch who did it. I asked them why they think they'll be able to find them… They said "because George W Bush just said that." Right. Horse shit! They'll never know. They find a couple people & make it look like it was all due to them just to "punish" someone. Why do people have to do that? I think God needs to flood the world again. I can't listen to this anymore. I think I'll go to bed. I love you guys so much. Being over here makes me think about stuff like that more… maybe one of the men who worked in the Twin Towers has a daughter in the PC half way around the world…and she hasn't seen him in almost a year. I think you guys should live in the basement 'til I get home . I miss you.

Sept 16

8 months from D-day, as Ben called it. I can't believe it's been that long. Yes. I'm going to say that every month 'til they make me come home. It was so nice talking to you in Bouake, Dad. And, Mom, sorry I was so short. I was in the middle of a pump deal with some really nice guy, and had to get going. I had two great experiences with human compassion in Bouake. I called this place to get a pump piece for my village. Well, my French works but it's not outstanding. And it is super hard to understand people on the phone. So, I talked to this guy trying to figure out if he had the piece I needed…& needed to know how to get to his store. Good luck. So, I asked the guardian at the house if he would talk to him & then explain it to me. The pump piece dude finally said, where are you…I'll come to you. So, he came all the way to the house just to talk to me about the piece. So I told him what I needed & he said he'd have his little brother send it out to the house - which was so nice - but it was going to take a couple hours. I told him I was kinda in a hurry. So he said why don't you just come with me to the store. Then I could head to Daloa from there. So that's when you called, Mom, while I was trying to get my bag ready. So he took me to a back alley, robbed me - just kidding. He took me to the store, got the piece, then took me to the bus station. There, he found one of the workers & said this girl wants to go to Daloa. Help her get there. So, this guy adopted me for the next couple hours & really went out of his way to help me. It's so nice to see genuine people come shining through, especially after the evil ones just emerged in the States. It was a good boost to remind me there are still a lot of good people out there. So, now I'm in Daloa. Let me tell you - I'm never coming home. I don't like Daloa in particular, but what I found here. I got the sweetest pair of sandals made. Maroon leather with leather insole - so cool. They'll be ready today…and for 2500cfa!!! Special made, nice leather sandals, made for me the next day for less than $4. Why do I want to come home?! And on top of that, I found the coolest material to have pants made. I'll take a picture for you. You're gonna love 'em! This place rocks for stuff like that. I'll never buy clothes in the States. I'll have to stock pile before I leave here. OK. Time for breakfast. Be back sometime.

Sept 17

I'm in your nightmare, Dad… I'm suffering through day 2 of this IST (In Service Training). It is the same darn thing we did during stage, only I had to travel 11 hours to get here & waste 3-4 days when I could be at home fixing our pump. I told her I was leaving because I thought this was IST but we aren't learning anything. I was told we were going to be talking about funding. I thought that meant outside sources, like NGOs, but she's talking about village based funding. We're discussing (to death) problem solving. They discuss list after list… We are all college grads. We can read & figure out what it means. But we have to discuss every stinkin' detail. You would have pulled your hair out by now, Dad. I'm about to. Who invented meetings? This is torture. Actually, the most productive meeting I've been to was in Ganse. It was to the point & everything was covered. Maybe "meetings" are an American creation…which is kinda ironic because everyone is always in a hurry there. Time is money. Everyone says that here when they see me walking fast. OK. I'm going to attempt to listen & stop fuming. Love you.

Sept 18

Well, I'm in Bouake right now, waiting for the badjan. I boiled this AM in Daloa. That IST was painful. I tried to leave yesterday, but my boss got pissed. I told her I could be doing something productive in the village and this IST is useless. I told her I thought it was going to be about funding for projects in the village & she said it is. We're covering that today. She flat out lied to me. So, I bailed this AM before she got there. I was trying to hurry so I could catch the badjan for Ganse. And I made it. I'm holding onto 2 rolls of film & this letter until I go to Bondoukou. I was going to try for a post office in Daloa but I heard all airmail has been stopped coming & going in the States. I don't trust the postal system to babysit my mail until they're ready again. I did have a great time with everybody in Daloa. It was so good to see everyone. I took some pics, but I thought I had another roll & didn't. So, I didn't get as many as I would have liked. We'll all be together again in November for the All-Vol (All Volunteer Conference). It's in Abidjan - well at a beach near Abidjan. I took this bus called UTB to Daloa. Sometimes being white is an advantage . When I was in Daloa, I saw the best name for a bus. It was like our Greyhound but the company was STD. Nice, huh. Wish I had my camera. It was covering the side of the bus & their animal logo is this horse/deer or something like that with an arrow going into it's butt. Even better. Definitely a Kodak moment. Well, I see the badjan so I'll be back later. Love you & miss you.

Sept 19

Back to reality. Just finished my laundry & now I'm taking a break. It is so stinkin hot today. It keeps threatening to rain but hasn't yet. It's amazing how much cooler it is after it rains. I was talking to Koffi today about something they call a "dozo". It's basically a fetisher, which is someone who has mystical powers. They can use it for good or bad, but, unless you're a more powerful dozo, you can't kill them. It's very interesting - all the things they believe in. He says his illness wasn't natural, or from God, as he says it. He says it's mystical. Someone against him did it. He goes to a traditional healer for it now. It's nuts. They've got all kinds of crazy stories here. Hey, random, when you come, do you think you can bring a little tape player? Just a cheapo. It can't be worse than the ones here - which is terrible. If you can find a small one, that's perfect. Just a one cassette deal. When I say small, I mean a cassette & one speaker small - that takes the big round batteries - D? Maybe ? Well, it's the 19th & Koffi still doesn't know where he'll be for school. Now he thinks it'll be Bondoukou. But he really wants to go to Abidjan. Bondoukou would be cool because I would be able to see him & John. We'll see. I'll be back. Time to eat .

Sept 20

IF there's one cultural exchange that is consistent with all of us - in my group - it's that the villagers can appropriately use the word "shit". Nice, huh? Someone mentioned how the kids in their village say it. Then everyone chimed in. I'm seeing what other words I can work into the curriculum. I thought of another thing you can bring when you come…another pillow case. This one is getting pretty raunchy. And, Mom, you mentioned bringing medical supplies. I don't think medicine, per se, is such a good idea - but maybe something like thermometers. It wouldn't be possible to distribute meds & I wouldn't know who to give it to. I could give out a couple thermometers, maybe. Actually, I don't even know if they know how to use that. Kouame's family didn't. OK. Nix that idea. It's been almost 3 weeks since I've gotten any mail. I haven't been to Nassian & my friends there haven't sent it yet. My heartburn has been kinda bad lately. Sorry I'm so random . All this piment…and another thing I've noticed here…starch - breads, rice, even oatmeal. Not much I can do since that's basically all there is to eat here. I basically eat no fruits & veggies except what grows in the garden. Which, BTW, is doing well right now. The tomatoes are growing like a champ & I'm keeping them sprayed so the bugs are at bay for now. The watermelon sprouted, but it'll be a long time before the fruit is ready. Weeding & watering keeps me busy & tomorrow we're hacking away at the jungle here at the house again. For now, it's sleepy time. I love you. Good night.

Sept 23

I tried the tomatoes for the first time from the garden. They were really good. There are a ton of tomato plants too. And I cleaned house on the green & wax beans. I gave them all away but the fun is just growing them. I've eaten a lot too. The watermelon is doing well so far. I'm keeping it well watered & sprayed for bugs. My English class is really a lot of fun now. Today, we played a game where I give them a topic & they just have to talk. It's very slow going but compared to how I did the same thing in French, they're doing awesome. We laugh a whole lot, between my French & their English. One question was - if you could meet anyone, who would it be… Ossane said he wants to meet my family. I can't wait 'til you meet them. They want to try to speak to you in English. Ossane is leaving soon for Dabakala. He's going back to school. It sucks. All the people my age (that I enjoy hanging around) are leaving. Kouakou will be my only student. I asked them about the Muslim religion today because I know nothing about it. They pray 5 times a day - 5am, 2pm, 4pm, 5:30pm & 8pm. They pray in Arabic. I asked if they can read Arabic or just understand it orally. They said they don't understand it. Hello?! They pray 5 times a day, everyday and don't have a clue what they're praying for. I asked the guy at the boutique if he has the Koran because I've never seen it before. He does. So, tomorrow, I'm going to check it out. I wish I knew Arabic. It's so cool looking. OH - guess who's coming tomorrow?! The repair man for the pump!!!! So, God willing, we'll have a functioning pump by the end of the day!! I don't know how long it takes to fix it. They said just one day. We'll see. Still no mail. The couple in Nassian haven't sent it and I'm not going to the marche 'til Thursday. I'm starting to get homesick because I haven't read any letter & I haven't talked to you & won't for almost a month! Woe is me . I think I'll go fall asleep listening to BBC. I miss you & love you. Before I forget… Mom, will you send some rubber bands for my hair? Not the big fatty thick ones, just the regular kind (big enough to fit around my wrist). Thanks . Good night!

Sept 24

The pump works!!! Today was so awesome seeing all the people buzz around the pump. Now there's no excuse to drink that nasty Comoe water. OK. That's a start. Now I need to get them crackin' on the latrines. Seeing as how I don't even have one yet, this may be quite a challenge. Before I forget - did I already ask for more maglite bulbs? I think I have 2 left. They aren't the best bulbs. I've already been through about 4. Did I tell you Badoo's family has a monkey at the house? It's so cute. He's nice too. He sleeps at your feet like a dog. I noticed today that he likes to eat crickets, so I gathered a bunch from the garden in a plastic bag & gave them to him. He grabbed the bag from my hand & started tearing into it. It was so cute. He's just got the cutest little face & hands. You know, when I was at the garden today, I started thinking about what all's been going on over there. It's so hard to believe it's real. I look around & see beautiful green plants & sunflowers, and the sky as the sun goes down, & how peaceful it is… It hits me again how isolated I am here. I'm in another world. Listening to BBC or VOA just makes me want to vomit. Everyone here thinks the US is the BEST & we're going to find who did this without a doubt. Listening to the radio, it sounds like it's all talk to me. I hope they're right. But I'm scared their not. It's sickening to hear President Bush talk about them revealing all their terrorist training camps. Training camps. Kinda like soccer camp. But with guns. I wonder if they have to run as much as we did at our training camp…? The whole thing is just too unbelievable. Then I have the few villagers that look at me & ask me if my home is going to start a 3rd world war. Are we going to start it. There's a thing here that they do, if I do something to piss you off & we're arguing blah, blah, blah… if I say "pardon", that's the end of it. They just drop it. No questions. It's really odd. But it works. So Koffi asked if Bin Laden (however you spell it) demands (asks) pardon, will we drop it? I said no and he asked why. He said it's the first time they've done it. Oh. Well, ok then. Kinda like in basketball, Dad…she didn't mean to trip her & kick her in the head. I told him this wasn't the first time. And how do you "demand pardon" after killing more than 6000 people?! Good Lord. What's wrong with us? Sorry. It's late. Kinda got carried away. I can't sleep. I think it's about 2AM. My watch is in the other room. I can't wait to see you guys. And now we have a pump that works so you can see at least one finished project from my service, even if it's the only one. I have 3 rolls of film for you, but they'll have to wait 'til I go to Bondoukou in 3 weeks. That's forever. So much can happen in that amount of time. I hope mail is moving again by then. Hopefully, I'll get my mail from Nassian before too long. I'm going on Thursday, but I was hoping to get it before then. Oh, well. Such is life, right . Think I'll try to sleep now. I miss you & I love you. Tell Eric hi for me since I won't talk to him for forever. Oh yeah, Rachel Witman said he called the house in Bondoukou looking for me & she ended up talking to him for 15-20 minutes. She said your brother is so nice. And he just kept talking about you and how he might try to got to NYC to see if they needed any help. It was kinda funny…Eric, a talker…! Funny . OK Goodnight.

Sept 26

We got a new teacher in Ganse. We had 2 plus Koffi. But Koffi just volunteered. Now that Koffi is leaving for school, there's a gap. There are 6 classes & now, 3 teachers. It's not good. We're lucky to have 3. The director is pretty cool. His name is John. The other teacher is weird and the new one is arrogant. He is such a know it all. It drives me nuts. I'm so surprised at how many people "know" about the States. When the new teacher came to the house, he saw the US map & said "Oh, a map of Canada". I said no, it's the States. He said "same thing". Right. Then he asked if Mexico was a state. They have a huge problem understanding the concept of North America & South America. He said it was the same continent. There are 5. I told him they weren't the same. But he's a teacher. He knows. I started to explain to him that the North Pole wasn't a continent, but I finally just agreed with him. It's like talking to a wall. I was hoping to go to the marche tomorrow but the badjan isn't coming. Every day, a badjan goes to Bouake from Naissan then goes back to Nassian the next day. I usually take the return trip to go to the marche. Well, for whatever reason, the badjan from Nassian didn't pass today. So I'm here 'til next week. Oh well. Wadda ya gonna do?! Tomorrow I'm "charging" water (carrying it on my head) from the new pump for the first time. I'm so happy it's fixed. When I come home, my body isn't going to know what to do with healthy food. Veggies - what are those?! Think I'll go listen to the news then head to bed. Love you!

Sept 27

Another thing I may never get used to is the way they "ask" for things here. Yesterday, one of the guys said he was going to Wekele on bike tomorrow. And he's going to come to my house & I'm going to give him my bike. And today, one of the guys said, after I said I'm going to the house, he's coming to my house & I'm going to give him medicine. I said I don't have any to give you & he said "you don't have any?" - NOT TO GIVE YOU. He's arrogant. I don't like him. I like it when the guys try to show off in front of their friends & ask me for stuff. Like that guy. Lately, people have been asking me for a lot. Oh well. They make this peanut brittle here. It is so good. They caramelize sugar then put crunchy peanut butter in it. It's not as hard as regular peanut brittle. OK. Have a good day. I'm gonna go fill up my barrique.

Oct 1

Well, I'm finally sick… And good Lord, is that latrine far! It's like a game. I have to guess when it's going to hit because "it's a long ass walk". Ca va aller. I got sick the other night too. But it was throwing up. I ate then threw up, then I got really cold. Normally, I bathe with water straight out of the barrique, but this time I had to heat it up. I slept in pants, socks, t-shirt & long sleeve shirt…& I was still cold. You know Niki's sick when she's cold in Africa. So now I'm just waiting for this one to pass. I actually had to break out the ORS (oral rehydration salts) because I'm losing so much water. It's about time. I was the only one left to get it. I've gotten pretty good about "mouse proofing" my house because I never know when he's there. Well, last night he was back & he chewed about 10 holes in one of the bandanas you made me. I had been using it to blow my nose… I guess my snot tastes pretty good . He eats EVERYTHING. He even eats my soap & my candles. Maybe it was to wash his mouth our after the snot . We (me Koffi, John, Daoda) were going to Ganse the other day & all of a sudden Koffi stops and looks up in the tree & asks me if I know what that is. I said what…THAT, he said… by then., John & Daoda were laughing so I looked around and saw I was standing smack in the middle of the manya ants - the ones that travel by the millions (they were in my first house & all over the outside this house one time). I didn't think it was very funny but they sure did. OK. It takes 3 ½ minutes to walk to the latrine. I just timed it. That may not sound very long, but you know who fast I walk. Now, imagine holding it for 3 ½ minutes. And while you're walking. I told Kouame I'd be happy if he got the latrine finished before you guys got here…but that was before I got sick. He better finish it soon. I think I mentioned in another letter about the things they believe in here - like mermaids & sorcery. I was talking to Koffi the other day about sorcery again. He thinks a sorcerer made him sick & gave him a bum leg. He said people in Africa are jealous & someone was jealous or mad at Koffi & did this to him. He said he's afraid to stay here in Ganse now because he says people are jealous that he's my "boyfriend" - whatever you can call it here. He said if he doesn't leave, a sorcerer is going to do something to hurt him. I asked if they would do something to me & he said no. I asked if they would hurt any of his friends or family to get at him & he said no. His brother was supposed to show up Sat to talk to Koffi about high school but he didn't come. He said often when they travel, they'll tell everyone they are arriving on a specific day, but really they're going to come a couple days before or after that day. It's to trump the sorcerer. Koffi said he didn't think they can hurt me if I don't believe in it. But they (Africans) are terrified of it. There are a lot of things like that here. They can't eat snails here in Ganse - they say it's a "totem" - kind of a bad omen. And Badoo's Mom can't go to Kakpin for the same reason. If she must travel past Kakpin, she has to cover her head when the badjan passes. She can't see it. And they can't see her. They firmly believe in this too. Koffi told me about a woman in a village near here…she turned into a "boeuf" (kinda like a bull, but a lot skinnier) and tried to kill her son. She stabbed him with her horns a couple times but he didn't die. Then she became human again. I'm trying so hard to keep a straight face and ask questions, but my "crock of shit" alarm goes off a lot here. But I have to just accept it because it's their way of life. It's crazy but it's very interesting. They ask me if there is sorcery in America. I told them I didn't know because I've never seen it. They know I don't understand/believe it, but that's fine with them. It's because I'm not African. That's what they say. I love hearing all their stories about it. A bunch of guys are going across the river today to a village called Amirabongo (I know that's spelled wrong) to see a man who does traditional medicine. A lot of times you'll see people with white powder on their faces, or dirt on their arms or legs (whatever ails them). It's medicine. Koffi has little scars on his back, about 8 of them that are like this {she drew a straight line, about ¾ inch long…}. He said in 1998, he had a severe back pain & one of the "vieux" (old men) took a straight razor and cut him on his back 20 times to "release" the curse or whatever it was. He's only got a few scars, but he said he cut him 20 times. John told me I was sick because I don't use their medicine. He's 21 & he said he's never thrown up in his life. Yeah. Right. Maybe this traditional medicine can stop me up a little . There's a name - well, lots of names - here that I really like. One is Yaokouba, Some of them are funny sounding too & when they first tell me I think they're messing with me. Then I remember they don't speak English. One was Soolieman. It just sounds funny. I guess I'll give you a break for now , but I've got 2 more weeks to write. Sorry, Dad. This one's gonna take a while. Oh, speaking of "gonna"…I gave a book to Ossane (one of my students) to practice English. I knew it was too hard to understand, but I thought he could practice reading. Well, he acme across a line & asked me what it meant…2 words in it were "aint" and "gonna".

Oct 2

Before I forget…Can you bring a soccer ball with you when you come in January? I think I already asked but I didn't want to forget. Yesterday, a huge storm blew in. it rained like mad for about 4 minutes. Then it HAILED. How crazy is that?! Everyone runs for cover when it rains except when it hailed - everyone was running around collecting up all the little pieces of ice to eat. Then that night, I had the worst dream I think I've ever had. You know how you can wake yourself up on accident - like if you're dreaming of kicking something & you actually kick. Well, I woke myself up because I was crying. I was with you two. Mom, you were telling me some stupid story about how you went out to lunch with one of your friends & I guess you were paying because you were pissed that she ordered a $20 meal instead of a $10 meal. I know you like to save money, but you were crying when you were telling me. Then you told me that Eric had 8 hours to live. I don't know after that. I woke myself up fast. I couldn't go back to sleep for a couple hours. I just kept thinking I haven't talked to you in forever & it's going to be 2 more weeks. If something does ever happen, you can call Brendon (PCVL) in Bondoukou or one of the other numbers I gave you. They will come get me. It may take a day or two, but they're not going to wait for me to come in. And I still haven't gotten my mail & haven't been able to send any out. So, I hope you're not worried about me . Nobody's crashing planes or dropping bombs in Ganse. My worst enemy here is diarrhea, which, by the way, is finished. I hope. I ate today, & so far so good. My cooking is so different. I'll be sure to give you a taste of "Africanized" cooking. Very greasy. I'm actually skinnier than I was at home, but I've lost some circumference on my arteries. Hey, as long as I look good while I'm having a coronary. I think I'm gonna hit the sack. I'm dying to talk to you guys, read mail, SOMETHING! This is the part I was afraid of, but better now than 3 or 4 months ago, since I'm used to it now. OK. Good night. I love you so much. And Eric, wait 'til I come home Wish me better dreams tonight.

Oct 4

Well, there was no badjan again yesterday, which means I won't be going to Nassian again this week for the marche. It's probably better that way. At this point, my body may reject anything that's not oil or salt. I was looking at the calendar & figured out that Aug 24 was the last day I got mail. Maybe tomorrow they'll send it. The director of the school arrived yesterday. We're still waiting on the other 2. It's a nice change hanging out with him. And the conversation is always in French. We were talking about wrestling again last night…they love that here. I tried telling them it wasn't real (sorry, Steven ), but they didn't believe me. Then, last night, Badoo's family had a "meeting" - the whole family - to tell Badoo's boyfriend she wanted to break up. Weird, huh? Badoo said she told him, but he keeps coming around. So now her family tells him too. I'll keep that in mind next time I want to break up with somebody… I'll let you guys do it . One thing I've learned here - or just noticed more - is what exactly "sharing" is. It's easy to share when you have a lot. If I want a pack of peanuts for myself & I want to "share", I can buy a pack for someone else. But these people have so little & can't buy more to give you, so they give you some of what little they have. It really makes you appreciate what you have. I'm gonna go take a nap. Love you & I can't wait to talk to you.

Oct 7

Happy 35th Birthday, Dad ! I was thinking I'd be in Bondoukou today - but plans changed. When I leave the village Oct 11, that makes 23 straight days in the village - not even to Nassian. That may not sound long but imagine not leaving Echo Mill for 23 days!! I'm having a good time but I'm ready for a break. Well, I finally got my mail 2 days ago…3 bags full! I've got the equivalent of 3 boxes of grits now! I know I say this all the time, but I can't believe how awesome everyone is. I got THREE packages from Jo Martin! And I got my first Christmas card - from her too . I got so much good stuff… Grandma's trail mix; marshmallows from Maw Maw. Oh, yeah & Teddy Grahams.. & I wonder why I have bad teeth . I got a ton of candy from Cathy & Mark & some pictures, too, from the wedding. Whoa, did she lose a lot of weight! At least it looks like it in the pictures. They both look great. And she sent me some of you guys too. All I have to say is my brother is one smooth lookin' dude . LOVE the suit and the goatee. You all 3 look great, & so happy - WITHOUT ME! How dare you have fun without me there . I passed out the candy for everyone here to try…gummy bears, jelly beans, froot by the foot, marshmallows, Skittles, Tootsie Rolls… It's so fun to watch their faces to see what they think. They love it, but it's bizarre for them. I got another letter form Mr. C - he rocks - he always thinks of me even when I'm on another continent. I was SO happy when I saw all my mail. I tore into it to see who all wrote & all the goodies inside. Jean-Marie & Lambert were here at the house with me. I opened the one with the newspaper in it & I felt like someone just punched me in the gut. Then I read the one Eric put online, with all the pics - unbelievable Eric. You are amazing. Jean-Marie & Lambert kept saying "Pardon, il faut pas pleurer, Niki" - that means please stop crying. Eric, I can only imagine how good that looks in color, and how many people you've touched by making that. I need to hurry up & get home though, because Eric (as I knew him) won't be there…you tried to GIVE BLOOD?!? What has this world come to?! I'm proud of you, Eric, just hate that I'm this far away from you. I can't write fast enough to write back to everyone. But I hope everyone knows how much I appreciate it all and I'm writing as fast as I can. Jo sent me tons of cool stuff - green tea, hot cocoa mix, (the fancy kind ), sauce mix for rice, stickers - TONS! I hope the other volunteers are getting as much support as I am. Leo Ash said his Mom sent him a package… She said she didn't know what he wanted, so she sent him some stuff that I had asked for. So now I'm posting package requests for other PCVs (for a small fee). Your letters are awesome, Mom & Dad & Eric - oh wait! I didn't get one from Eric (editors note: she did get one from me.. it had a short paragraph from me and a bunch of emails and guestbook entries on the rest of it. guess she doesnt remember it.). I organize them when I get them - Dad's first, then yours, Mom (along with Grandma's - your handwriting is basically the same). I can read Dad's the easiest, then I take the rest of the day deciphering Mom's . Just kidding, Mom. It only takes a few hours. But seriously, I do love the letters. It helps me feel like I'm not totally missing out on everything. I've got some good pics I'm sending - sorry, no captions. I'll get them to you ASAP. There have been so many times I've wished I had my camera with me. One was going to the fields yesterday. Saturday is the church co-op, so I went with the women. We were walking through the fields, me in back of about 10 women, all with babies on their backs & cuvettes (big tubs) on their heads. It looked so cool. I've also decided I want to be black. White skin is so gross & pasty. But they love it, & they all wish they had hair on their arms like me & big hairy eyebrows like mine. They are hilarious. The other day, Jean-Marie told me I was "gross en bas" - that means I'm big on the bottom. My arms may be skinny, but my butt & legs make up for it. we were talking about belly buttons the other day & they said mine was like a cup. You can drink from it, it's so big. Then someone told me my stomach is "gross" (big) & it sticks out. You can't help but laugh when they "compliment" you. Well, Koffi is still waiting on his brother to see when he's leaving for school. Jean-Marie is leaving tomorrow, & I think he's going to go to Monga with me on the 14th. He already said he wants to come to the airport with me to get you guys. He's so nice. It's going to be so weird that you can't talk to my friends. Everyone is so excited to meet you. I have to try not to think about it too much because I get too excited & it's still 3 months away. I'm heading to Ganse for lunch… We're making attieke again - LOVE that stuff! I'll be back later.

Oct 10

Koffi went to Dabakala yesterday & brought me back the best present ever - bananas & oranges! I ate banana & orange salad with you this AM, Mom . Koffi just looked at me funny when I said it was "salad". Well, my boss is heading this way tomorrow, then I'm leaving with her. I'm trying to get 3 rolls of film in the mail. If the bank is closed, I'll have to send them later because I don't have much $ on me. Everything is still going well. I'm still having a good time & trying to soak in every bit of this place. This 3 month block 'til you guys come is going to be longer than the first 9. I think about you guys every day & how I'm going to cry like a baby when I finally see you! Oh - I don't think Kumasi is very far from Bondoukou… I don't have a good map of Ghana though. Sorry I'm slack with the captions. I'll get them to you eventually. I love you & miss you terribly! I can't wait to talk to you…only 2 more days. (You better be there ).
I love you
Niki Rock